Paddling in Qingdao

Like many parts of China its probably changed fast and become almost unrecognisable from what it was.  And what is was, was great, a total contrast to the manic cities of Beijing and Shanghai an unexpected discovery on China's east coast.  I'm not going to lie, we headed for Qingdao for one reason and that one reason was the beer.  Of course it was a bonus that the very city that produced this tasty beverage was near the first sign of a beach / resort city that we had seen in the year we had spent in China.   

Exiting the train at 6.30am we were preparing to run the gauntlet of hotel touts and find our own place to stay.  Our resolve lasted at least 30 seconds, before we were approached by a man offering a brand new hotel for the bargain price of 40 Yuan.  Always one for a bargain, plus the fact that when pointed out, it was straight opposite and we had heavy bags were all compelling reasons to sign up.  The outside look sparkly the inside didn't.  In fact it wasn't even finished, still even builders in China should be able to make a little on the side and the double room complete with its own bathroom was quickly made up with clean sheets and bleach poured down the toilet that was so close to the wall that it was only possible to use if a straddle or sideways approach was adopted.  Perfect what more could we want.

We dumped our stuff and set off exploring.  It's possible to walk along the top of the cliff top for quite away.  We stopped several times to check out what was on offer.  Walking over the jetty we stopped to watch local fisherman trying their luck hoping to sell some of their catch to one of the many seafood restaurants on offer in this city, or if not, at least to the market stalls that popped up in an evening on the pier offering tasty treats at a more affordable price for the locals, and those on a limited budget like ourselves.

 

A little weirdly there is also a German mansion house that you can go see, left over from the colonial occupation at the beginning of the last century and also a cathedral that strangely appeared in the middle of a Chinese neighbourhood and some of the smaller shopping streets around.  And of course there is the beach which appeared clean enough to swim or paddle.

 

Two things however really stand out from the trip.  One, it's apparently the place to go if you're a bride in China and want photos by the sea.  During my year here I had been lucky enough to go to several weddings and had learnt that it's fashionable to have official wedding photos taken in western style dress before the big day so they can then be sent out as an invite.  Looking down on the beach that day in Qingdao was a surreal experience, there were literally brides everywhere! all in big meringue dresses complete with thick makeup doing 'romantic poses' as directed following the instructions of the keen photographers that were buzzing around.  And of course the slightly awkward looking grooms dressed in polyester suits and trying their best to keep up.  The photographers assistants followed on with large silver reflectors and makeup bags responsible for keeping the brides make up on her face despite the 30 degree heat.  An amusing site and surely the basis for a game show somehow.

The second thing that really stood out was the awesome fact that in this city if you fancy a beer you can leave your hotel room, pop down to the street and some man with a keg will fill up a plastic carrier bag for you to take away.  Awesome, a little impractical, but still a definite must do whilst here.  No better way to sample Qingdao than in Qingdao.

As we ate that night on the pier we tucked in to a variety of unidentifiable sea-life and of course a refreshing pint whilst we chatted to some locals.  This is definitely one place in China that would be worth a second visit.  I just hope with rapid modernisation and hosting major events like sailing regattas it won't have lost its very charm and quirkiness that made it so unique in China.

 

Montenegro - a quieter alternative to Croatia

This small Balkan nation has a lot to offer.  A relatively new nation formed in 2006 with a population of less than 700,000 it feels like there is plenty of space to go around.  Located on the Adriatic coast the biggest draws to this less explored nation are the rugged mountains, narrow strips of beaches and medieval villages and fortified towns, that reach all along the coast.

Unfortunately the pristine landscape and unspoilt beaches are slowly being revealed as some of the best kept secrets of this part of the world.  As Croatia becomes over run with tourists and cruise ships stopping along the Adriatic, more and more people are searching further south for a quieter alternative which is no less beautiful.

One of the cheapest and easiest ways to get to Montenegro is to fly into Dubrovnik and take a bus along the coast, jumping off where ever takes your fancy.  As we only had a week, we headed for one of the more famous stops along the Adriatic, the beautiful fortified town of Budva.  Getting off the bus we found our hotel right on the beach, a 10 minute drive from the centre.  Mountains behind and clear tempting sea in front.  The location couldn't have been better, and what's more it's possible to walk all along the beach into the old town of Budva.  The wide sweeping bay is lined with small bars and restaurants which were mainly filled with local tourists, a much tempting offer than those further north, filled with cheap package holiday sun seekers.

The medieval town of Budva is small and very walkable.  Small narrow alleys offer shade from the heat of the day, interesting buildings, craft shops and cafes, and views over the harbour.  Plenty to do for a couple of hours if relaxing on the beach gets too much.

Not being people to lie about we got a bus to Kotor.  Another fortified medieval town, this is slightly bigger than Budva and has a little more to offer.  Its location is stunning, a natural harbour protected by the remains of a hill fort looking down town below.  It's also more expensive here which may have something to do with the ability for clipper ships to pull in here and disgorge tourists every so often.  Despite this the boat just added to the feel of the place, and it was easy to disappear and find back streets and alleys, steps cut into rock between buildings led to places where it felt only locals might go.

The architecture here is also a draw, indeed we saw several groups of artists, set up their easels tempted by the carvings, balconies and slightly weathered exteriors that the buildings had to offer.  Very picturesque and all very lovely.

If I had had more energy I should have gone to Sveti Stefan an island attached by a sand bar to the mainland, complete with churches and red roofed houses and narrow streets, one of the most photographed places in Montenegro.  I also should have gone into the mountains and done some walking through native forest and wild countryside, seen the National park of Lake Skadar and the monastery of Ostrog, but I didn't.  Next time huh, and quickly before the crowds catch on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Normandy, history a lesson to be learned

Driving through these quintessential French villages with their quaint streets, boulangeries, and imposing town halls, it was difficult to image the immense struggle, upheaval, loss and bravery that these same places must have felt 70 years ago.  This part of France remains very rural and the pretty villages feel sleepy.  We didn't see crowds, just the odd few people buying their daily shopping, the stereotypical baguettes included.

We were here to uncover some of the stories of D -Day 1944, a series of events that changed the fortunes of the Allies and paved the way for victory in Europe.  There are many museums, cemeteries, memorials and poignant places to choose to visit in this area, and of course there are the landing beaches themselves.

Utah Beach

First stop was the Utah beach museum.  As we arrived the wind was strong, sending sand swirling through the air hitting our faces and making it hard to see.  The waves were crashing up onto the beaches all along the coast, giving some idea of just how hard it must have been to launch an invasion from here.  The museum itself is interesting, remains of fortifications have been absorbed into the building along with other memorabilia, telling the story of the 6th June 1944.

Pegasus Bridge

Even more interesting was a stop at Pegasus Bridge.  The museum here tells the story of the gliders of the airborne division who were successful in their attempt to capture the bridge thus ensuring a vital line of attack and supplies.  The bridge and its story made even more famous in popular culture by the film 'The longest day', despite some errors made in accuracy as pointed out by our informative guide, has been replaced.  But the original still stands a few hundred feet away from its original position, and is now a memorial to those that took it.

Bayeux Cathedral liberated by allies

Arromanches 360 museum is another place worth a look.  Located on top of the cliff overlooking Gold beach, this shows a well put together film of images of the invasion.  As you stand in a 360 space images are projected on the wall.  An assault on the senses and a visual reminder of events of 1944 and beyond.  Walking from here you can make your way down to the beach where the rusting remains of the Mulberries (floating harbours) can still be seen.  Arromanches is now a small coastal resort complete with ice-cream shops and souvenirs attracting tourists with its legacy of events past.

American Cemetery

A visual reminder of conflict of a different type was seen at Pointe du Hoc.  This area located between the landing beaches of Omaha and Utah was a German fortification, complete with canons capable of causing immense damage to the invading allied forces.  All that remains here now on top of the near impregnable cliffs are the remains of several gun batteries and large crater holes, as well as the moving stories of the American rangers who lost their lives here. 

Banneville-la-Campagne

The most moving part of our explorations around this part of Normandy were the visits to the exquisitely maintained cemeteries of the fallen.  We laid crosses at the British cemeteries of Banneville-la-Campagne and Brouay, both final resting places of soldiers from our town.  As we said prayers of remembrance and thanks, the sun was shining brightly and birds singing.  This seemed like a fitting tribute to those not much older than the group we were with.  The scale of the American cemetery at Coleville-sur-mer overlooking Omaha beach, was in complete contrast to the more intimate spaces we had just left, but no less or more poignant.

Brouay

Our final destination of this short visit was La Cambe German military cemetery.  This small space so well laid out with its black memorial crosses and small plaques made it hard to believe over 21,000 German war dead are buried here.  Their remains brought together here from across Normandy to their final resting place.  As we left here ready to begin our journey back to the ferry heading for home, we reflected on all we had seen and learnt in the past few days.  Sitting outside as we left the German cemetery was an old man complete with military blazer and a chest full of medals.  He sat smoking a pipe and like us was reflecting on times past only from a different perspective, as he was one of the allied soldiers who landed at Juno.  He had come to remember not just names from history, but friends and colleagues who had paid the ultimate sacrifice.  He was happy to chat, after all he said he is one of the few that remain and we must never forget.

German cemetery

 

 

 

 

 

 

A relaxing 24 hours in Brussels

'Not much to see but with a rather lovely square', this was the general response when I told people I had 24 hours in Brussels, so with restrained expectations we arrived.  Maybe it helped the sun was shining, or that we had arrived right in the centre by train, missing out all the often unloved suburbs that many a city has to offer.  But initial impressions were good.  We stayed in a very convenient hotel, right by the station.  In other cities this is often the more neglected part of the city but in Brussels it seemed more incorporated into the centre.  It was a short 20 minutes stroll up to the old streets and pedestrian part of the city. 

Our walk took us through what has to be the Moroccan area, lots of cafes with men sitting outside drinking mint tea, some deep in conversation, and fruit and veg stores with their wares spilling out on to the street. Huge water melons, artichokes and oranges complete with leaves.  Following this road the areas buildings became more intricate, great carved window frames and large closed double doors, occasionally opening to let cars through, but never enough to let you see inside into the space beyond.  Cafes lined the streets nearer to the centre, all with tables and chairs temptingly positioned to encourage you sit down, order a local beer and watch the world go by.

We resisted this temptation for the time being and headed to the promised square of lovely, and it didn't disappoint.  Despite one side being covered in scaffolding, the other 3 sides more than made up for it, with their building facades all leading to a point on their roofs.  Fussy carvings and windows seemed to be the style of the day.  The large open space of the square itself was complete with tourists taking photos, yet more eating and drinking establishments and people just hanging out.  A group of young people sat playing the guitar, trying to look cool, whilst next to them a pop up flower market had been set up drawing people in with its colour in contrast to the gray and brown of the buildings behind.  There was even someone wandering around dressed as Tintin, apparently created in Belgium, who knew.

Tempting chocolate

From here time was spent wandering around the pedestrian streets, a worthwhile pursuit to see what the city has on offer.  Fabulous displays of chocolate and meringues adorned shop windows, a rainbow of colour and tempting smells drawing people in.  And of course there were the beer shops, numerous varieties of locally brewed beverages on offer each with their own interesting labels hoping to drawn the eye away from the other offerings.  We even walked to see the infamous 'Manneken Pis' or 'little man pee', this small statue is apparently one of the most photographed things in Brussels, I didn't add to that number, drawn instead to the window of a much more interesting waffle shop across the road!

Pile of meringues!

We walked out of the main hub and towards the botanical gardens.  This walk took us through a more modern part of the city, where large modern glass fronted buildings sat together with some of the more traditional offerings.  In the gardens pretty box hedges, water features and terracing provided a great place to stop for a well earned rest.  It was just a pity that the interesting glass house had nothing special inside.

Botanical gardens

A busy afternoon of wandering meant we had earned a drink, the atmosphere in the square was a perfect place for this.  Dinner was taken at Le Cirio established in1886 this grand cafe is full of brass work and quirky features.  We sat outside enjoying a delicious dinner whilst indulging in more people watching.

Strange happenings in the square

So Brussels in 24 hours, we could have done more, but what we did was enough to get the flavour of this destination.  Is it a return destination? not sure, but it is a great gateway to other European destinations, so who knows one day I'll be back for another 24 hours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Luxembourg, just what's needed in a city

We discovered the lift in the cliff by accident, initially it looked like a lift down into a car park, but we thought we would give it a go.  We had seen a very tempting bar, with terrace alongside the river from the top of the gorge and were wondering how to get to it.  The aforementioned lift brought us out just opposite, very convenient we thought, as we settled in for a local beer in the sunshine at 'Scotts bar'.

This part of Luxembourg is called the 'Grund' and it's easy to miss if you just follow the tourists, most of whom seem content jumping off their tour buses and heading into the pedestrian streets of the city centre.  This area seemed to escape the crowds, tempting bars and restaurants are found on these cobbled streets, in this mainly residential area.  It's also possible to walk alongside the river here, past the Neimenster monastery, and alongside beautifully tended allotments and rose gardens nestled into the side of the gorge itself.

 

Other places worthy of mention down here are both fine for tasty dinners.  The UpDown bar, offering good beers and homemade food, and 'Vins Fins' Wine bar, with specially selected wine by the glass to be enjoyed with platters of meats, cheeses and vegetarian dips.  Something that we did as a local party helped turn the little place into a buzzing Friday night venue, whilst everyone was looked after by the extremely welcoming couple that ran the place.

 

From this older area of the city it's possible to climb to the main town in several ways, the lift back up is always an option, or several narrow roads zig zag there way up.  Alternatively there are also several walking pathways.  One of which follows the course of the gorge - Vallee de la Petrusse, a small waterway flows down the centre, the rest lined with trees and shrubs, making this walk pleasant one away from the hustle and bustle of city life going on 46 metres above.

The view from the top across and into the gorge is impressive and has been described by many guide books as the best terrace in Europe.  Whilst it is lovely, with views across to the railway part of the city and to the bridges spanning the drop below, it's still worth the walk down to see the city from a different perspective.

There are other parts to Luxembourg that will be mentioned in a later blog, but for anyone thinking of a weekend destination Luxembourg city shouldn't disappoint.  It's easy to get there by air or car, but as always the train is always an option to make the journey part of the trip.  The local SNCB train from Brussels connects with the Eurostar and provides a comfortable and affordable trip taking in views of Luxembourg as the train speeds along and increasing the anticipation of the exploring to come.

Anglesey, a lot to offer

The drive to get to Anglesey had taken 5 hours.  Winding our way through the rolling hills and valleys of central Wales.  We had come this way on purpose as we were looking forward to seeing the wild landscape and isolated villages.  Unfortunately it was raining.  Heavily.  Windscreen wipers on as fast as they could go.  Through the small breaks however came a glimpse of those promised views, rough green and rocky outcrops.

Menai Strait

The final bit of our journey followed the road along the north Wales coast and then crossing the Britannia bridge into Anglesey itself.  A few more miles on we arrived in Beaumaris, on the eastern shore on the Menai Strait.  And in a weird film way the rain stopped and the sun came out.

Beaumaris itself is a buzzing little town, boasting several attractions, a Victorian pier, a variety of small boutiques and plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from.  However not being over crowded with tourists it retains its locals feel.  We were staying for two nights and this gave us plenty of opportunity to check out some local sites.  There are some stunning views from the cliff top walk just above the town itself, sweeping views across the strait, to the hills of north Wales and out to sea. 

Beaumaris Castle

It's also well worth checking out Beaumaris castle, run now by Cadw, the Welsh heritage preservation group.  Here you can pretend you are the rampaging invading English or a Welsh lord, defending your land from the impressive ramparts that still remain and are open for exploration.  Much remains of the castle and you can easily spend a couple of hours here, checking out the narrow corridors and towers.

Beaumaris Castle - Cadw

We were staying in the Bulls Head.  A fine example of an historic inn nicely rebranded into a hotel with rooms and great food.  Our room was in the newer part.  Modern facilities, well designed with a view over the busy street below.  The only weird thing being the glass panel between bedroom and bathroom, ensuring the person going to the toilet in the night will wake up the other, a quirky feature.  The pub / restaurant offers 2 excellent eating options.  The loft restaurant, where fine locally sourced ingredients are on offer in some well thought out dishes, or my personal favourite the Brasserie.  A more laid back affair with equally tasty treats on offer.  Not forgetting of course the opportunity to sample some tasty local ales in the small bar out front.

A very welcoming place to stay

Just a little further along the coast is the stunningly located National Trust property of Plas Newydd House and Gardens.  The gardens are beautifully kept with views over to Snowdonia.  Paths wind along the side of the Menai strait, woodland trails lined with rhododendrons offering glimpses to the water below.  The sun was shining and the water glistened and highlighted the house itself.  Helpful guides, as you would expect from National Trust volunteers were keen to show off all the house had to offer, including a spectacular mural by Rex Whistler his largest ever painting.  After checking all this out the teas shop was a welcome distraction.

Plas Newydd

For those people thinking of a weekend destination you could do a lot worse than this welcoming part of the Welsh coast.

Latvia - national parks and hospital beds

It was about a 6 hour bus journey from Tallinn (Estonia) to Riga, capital of Latvia.  As usual on this journey, the bus seemed to leave at the most inconvenient time.  11.40 pm.  Late enough so you have to leave your bag somewhere all day, driving through the night so you miss any interesting scenery on the way, and always arriving at the destination far too early to check into any hostel.  This seemed to be the way with the cheap buses we had taken on our travels.  Still the coach was fairly comfortable and crossing the border hassle free, just one guard making his way up and down the bus stamping people in.  We arrived at 6.30ish, bus station on the edge of town. 

Riga

We were staying a little way out of town, in a suburban area but well connected to the city by trolley bus.  This was the most expensive place we had been on this journey that had started back in Shanghai, China.  It also brought about a different feel.  An old town listed as a world heritage site awaited and allowed plenty of opportunity to explore on foot.  Impressive facades in different colours encircled a large square where buskers were playing what seemed like suitable music on string instruments and cafes and restaurants seemed to invite you to sit down.  We took a short walking tour taking in the highlights, several places of worship, the Swedish gate, and alleys lined with craft stalls.  A very restful place, complete with towers and river.

Riga Square

We decided to leave the city and check out some of the greenery on offer in the form of the national parks.  We settled on the Gauja valley, dubbed by some to be the 'Switzerland' of Latvia.  This wooded valley, was advertised as playing host to a string of medieval castles and the site of many natural caves.  Sounded like the perfect place for some fresh air and exercise.

The journey from Riga to Sigulda was short only 1 hour 15 mins, which passed quickly as most of the time was spent looking down the river valley.  We got off in the heart of the national park, feeling ready for a hike.  First things first however, my companions had read about an Olympic size 16 bend metal bobsled run where for a small fee you can enjoy the thrill of being flung down it.  I waited at the side with the camera.  They assured me it was worth it.  They were the only ones there, and when else would you have the opportunity to do this?

Bobsled Run

From this surreal adventure, things got even stranger when we arrived at the place we had booked to stay.  Back in Riga we had been recommended the 'Krimulda mansion', weird we were told but worth it.  It was advertised as a rehabilitation centre for kids, but looked more like a sanatorium, our room was in a large semi circular summer house next to the beautifully manicured front lawn.  The summer house was split into rooms, each with wooden frames and doors and to complete the illusion were hospital beds.  For a moment we wondered whether this was a good idea, but a hot shower, great views and the promise of a good walk meant we didn't hesitate.  We dumped our bags and headed on out.

The 'hostel'

We spent a good few hours exploring the trails around next to the river and the woods.  We explored the caves and the remains of Krimulda castle, which also included some interesting grounds and statues from famous folk tales.  We had got this high up the valley by taking the cable car, this made the views even more spectacular.  We continued our walk further along the valley this time deciding to leave the cable car and walk.  We found ourselves approaching Turaida castle.  A magnificant red brick castle founded in 1214.  It was starting to get dusk when we arrived, but as well as with the sunset, our arrival coincided with a couple of hundred other people who it seemed had come to see opera at the castle.  We managed to get in, and find a seat at a restaurant within the walls, with a balcony overlooking the action.  We ordered food and beer and settled in.

 

The music filled the valley, music resonating from the walls.  The atmosphere was light, people relaxing with their family and friends, enjoying picnics and wine.  It was a great evening and a truly unexpected one.  The only downside was that it was now dark, we had no torch and we had to walk back up a very steep hill to our 'hostel'.  We stuck close together as the darkness closed in around us, and the silence that fell on the valley was a little scary!  We got back and now tired, this was one hospital bed, we didn't find falling into.

Turaida Castle