Paddling in Qingdao

Like many parts of China its probably changed fast and become almost unrecognisable from what it was.  And what is was, was great, a total contrast to the manic cities of Beijing and Shanghai an unexpected discovery on China's east coast.  I'm not going to lie, we headed for Qingdao for one reason and that one reason was the beer.  Of course it was a bonus that the very city that produced this tasty beverage was near the first sign of a beach / resort city that we had seen in the year we had spent in China.   

Exiting the train at 6.30am we were preparing to run the gauntlet of hotel touts and find our own place to stay.  Our resolve lasted at least 30 seconds, before we were approached by a man offering a brand new hotel for the bargain price of 40 Yuan.  Always one for a bargain, plus the fact that when pointed out, it was straight opposite and we had heavy bags were all compelling reasons to sign up.  The outside look sparkly the inside didn't.  In fact it wasn't even finished, still even builders in China should be able to make a little on the side and the double room complete with its own bathroom was quickly made up with clean sheets and bleach poured down the toilet that was so close to the wall that it was only possible to use if a straddle or sideways approach was adopted.  Perfect what more could we want.

We dumped our stuff and set off exploring.  It's possible to walk along the top of the cliff top for quite away.  We stopped several times to check out what was on offer.  Walking over the jetty we stopped to watch local fisherman trying their luck hoping to sell some of their catch to one of the many seafood restaurants on offer in this city, or if not, at least to the market stalls that popped up in an evening on the pier offering tasty treats at a more affordable price for the locals, and those on a limited budget like ourselves.

 

A little weirdly there is also a German mansion house that you can go see, left over from the colonial occupation at the beginning of the last century and also a cathedral that strangely appeared in the middle of a Chinese neighbourhood and some of the smaller shopping streets around.  And of course there is the beach which appeared clean enough to swim or paddle.

 

Two things however really stand out from the trip.  One, it's apparently the place to go if you're a bride in China and want photos by the sea.  During my year here I had been lucky enough to go to several weddings and had learnt that it's fashionable to have official wedding photos taken in western style dress before the big day so they can then be sent out as an invite.  Looking down on the beach that day in Qingdao was a surreal experience, there were literally brides everywhere! all in big meringue dresses complete with thick makeup doing 'romantic poses' as directed following the instructions of the keen photographers that were buzzing around.  And of course the slightly awkward looking grooms dressed in polyester suits and trying their best to keep up.  The photographers assistants followed on with large silver reflectors and makeup bags responsible for keeping the brides make up on her face despite the 30 degree heat.  An amusing site and surely the basis for a game show somehow.

The second thing that really stood out was the awesome fact that in this city if you fancy a beer you can leave your hotel room, pop down to the street and some man with a keg will fill up a plastic carrier bag for you to take away.  Awesome, a little impractical, but still a definite must do whilst here.  No better way to sample Qingdao than in Qingdao.

As we ate that night on the pier we tucked in to a variety of unidentifiable sea-life and of course a refreshing pint whilst we chatted to some locals.  This is definitely one place in China that would be worth a second visit.  I just hope with rapid modernisation and hosting major events like sailing regattas it won't have lost its very charm and quirkiness that made it so unique in China.