The best of Baku

Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan and the largest city in the Caucasus' certainly stands out.  It's a buzzing metropolis where flashy opulence seemingly goes hand in hand with tradition.  It's a place that seems to span the divide between east and west in an easy going and welcoming manner.  The historic heart of the city, complete with walls and narrow alleys showcase the best of the old city and its heritage.  Here it's easy to get lost in the maze of cobbled lanes, and narrow stone steps leading from street to street.  Look up and the houses are adorned with cast iron balconies, paint chipping and walls flaking, shade is provided naturally in these narrow passages a welcome relief from temperatures in the high thirties.  It's worth seeking out a room here to enjoy the best the area has to offer both day and night.  Small boutiques and restaurants hidden in cellars are there to tempt. 

 

Not to be missed is the Shirvanshahs Palace, built in the 15th century and restored complete with ceremonial courts, carvings and great views out to Baku Bay beyond.  The maidens tower also looked promising, but unfortunately was closed for renovation.

Maidens Tower

Breaking free from the old city walls and entering the new modern heart of Baku is a pleasant surprise.  Wide tree lined boulevards surround leafy squares and a cosmopolitan city awaits.  Exceptionally well dressed locals parade round the square in the latest designer fashions.  Mothers in super high shoes show amazing dexterity chasing their small children round the park.  Whilst other locals take in the designer boutiques that line the main roads and luxury cars are seen parked along the waterfront.  All of this a strange juxtaposition with the old and dated tower blocks, the remnants of the cities soviet past, that can still be seen in some neighbourhoods.  The best vantage point for all this is from above and trendy bars selling cold beer and cocktails look down over the main square, complete with glass balconies and comfortable sofas.

Modern architecture is certainly a feature of the 'new Baku' and the Heydar Aliyev cultural centre is a gem of a building. 

Its distinctive white curves and flowing lines reject all form of angles, it's not often you can sit on the side walls of a building, but the bright white tiles and sleek exterior are impressive and provide for some fun photos.

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre

Another group of buildings that are difficult to avoid are the Flame towers, 3 of the tallest buildings in Baku, each covered in LED screens that light up at night and alternate in their display of moving flames and the waving flag of Azerbaijan.  It's an impressive site on Baku's new modernist skyline.  One of the building houses the 5 star Fairmount hotel and even as badly dressed backpackers we managed to blag our way in an to get a hotel tour.  If you can afford it, a stay here would provide great views and a fair amount of comfort, although they are clearly expecting everyone to drive up as crossing the busy duel lane highway in from proved to be quite a challenge.

Flame Towers

One of the standout selling points of Baku is its position on the Caspian sea.  Evidence of its oil rich industry can still be seen, but somehow this has been moved further round the bay and instead the shore is lined with wide tree lined, shady parks and pedestrian only walkways stretching from a brand new Mall and Freedom Square at one end to Azerbaijan's giant flag pole and exhibition centre at the other.  This 3km curve is  a great place to sit and looks at locals enjoying activities whatever time of day, and is especially welcoming in the evening, when the heat of the day disappears and the temperatures become more comfortable.  At the nearest point to the underpass into the city centre are also some bars and restaurants full of families of all ages late into the night.

On the final day of our travels in Azerbaijan, we decided to do something very touristy and surreal but surprisingly enjoyable.  We look a boat ride in the mini canals built into the promenade, a Disney kind of experience, complete with gondolas and bridges.  Definitely not something we imagined doing but somehow seemingly appropriate in this the best of cities.