Sunday, 14 June 2015

Normandy, history a lesson to be learned

Driving through these quintessential French villages with their quaint streets, boulangeries, and imposing town halls, it was difficult to image the immense struggle, upheaval, loss and bravery that these same places must have felt 70 years ago.  This part of France remains very rural and the pretty villages feel sleepy.  We didn't see crowds, just the odd few people buying their daily shopping, the stereotypical baguettes included.

We were here to uncover some of the stories of D -Day 1944, a series of events that changed the fortunes of the Allies and paved the way for victory in Europe.  There are many museums, cemeteries, memorials and poignant places to choose to visit in this area, and of course there are the landing beaches themselves.
Utah Beach

First stop was the Utah beach museum.  As we arrived the wind was strong, sending sand swirling through the air hitting our faces and making it hard to see.  The waves were crashing up onto the beaches all along the coast, giving some idea of just how hard it must have been to launch an invasion from here.  The museum itself is interesting, remains of fortifications have been absorbed into the building along with other memorabilia, telling the story of the 6th June 1944.

Pegasus Bridge
Even more interesting was a stop at Pegasus Bridge.  The museum here tells the story of the gliders of the airborne division who were successful in their attempt to capture the bridge thus ensuring a vital line of attack and supplies.  The bridge and its story made even more famous in popular culture by the film 'The longest day', despite some errors made in accuracy as pointed out by our informative guide, has been replaced.  But the original still stands a few hundred feet away from its original position, and is now a memorial to those that took it.

Bayeux Cathedral liberated by allies
Arromanches 360 museum is another place worth a look.  Located on top of the cliff overlooking Gold beach, this shows a well put together film of images of the invasion.  As you stand in a 360 space images are projected on the wall.  An assault on the senses and a visual reminder of events of 1944 and beyond.  Walking from here you can make your way down to the beach where the rusting remains of the Mulberries (floating harbours) can still be seen.  Arromanches is now a small coastal resort complete with ice-cream shops and souvenirs attracting tourists with its legacy of events past.

American Cemetery
A visual reminder of conflict of a different type was seen at Pointe du Hoc.  This area located between the landing beaches of Omaha and Utah was a German fortification, complete with canons capable of causing immense damage to the invading allied forces.  All that remains here now on top of the near impregnable cliffs are the remains of several gun batteries and large crater holes, as well as the moving stories of the American rangers who lost their lives here. 

Banneville-la-Campagne

The most moving part of our explorations around this part of Normandy were the visits to the exquisitely maintained cemeteries of the fallen.  We laid crosses at the British cemeteries of Banneville-la-Campagne and Brouay, both final resting places of soldiers from our town.  As we said prayers of remembrance and thanks, the sun was shining brightly and birds singing.  This seemed like a fitting tribute to those not much older than the group we were with.  The scale of the American cemetery at Coleville-sur-mer overlooking Omaha beach, was in complete contrast to the more intimate spaces we had just left, but no less or more poignant.

Brouay
Our final destination of this short visit was La Cambe German military cemetery.  This small space so well laid out with its black memorial crosses and small plaques made it hard to believe over 21,000 German war dead are buried here.  Their remains brought together here from across Normandy to their final resting place.  As we left here ready to begin our journey back to the ferry heading for home, we reflected on all we had seen and learnt in the past few days.  Sitting outside as we left the German cemetery was an old man complete with military blazer and a chest full of medals.  He sat smoking a pipe and like us was reflecting on times past only from a different perspective, as he was one of the allied soldiers who landed at Juno.  He had come to remember not just names from history, but friends and colleagues who had paid the ultimate sacrifice.  He was happy to chat, after all he said he is one of the few that remain and we must never forget.

German cemetery

 

 

 

 
 


 

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