Whenever people ask me which is my favourite
travel experience, it's always a difficult answer, but one day always makes it
into the top ten. I had been travelling
through Egypt for two weeks already, had crossed the White Desert, swum in an oasis
that appeared as a welcome vision out of nowhere, taken in my fill of history,
temples and pyramids and escaped the chaos of Luxor and Cairo. Now I found myself in the Sinai peninsula, a
vast open expanse of desert, dry land and mountains, interspersed with a few
isolated villages, settlements and many goats.
We stopped after a very long hot drive next to Saint Catherine's Monastery at the base of Mt Sinai. Our reason for being here, to climb to the top and take in the sunrise. Mt Sinai is famous according to the book of Exodus as the mountain at which the ten commandments were given to Moses by God. Now, as well as being a destination for the several travellers that make their way to this remote spot, it's also a place of pilgrimage for many who come to feel the magic of this special place.
We had heard talk of large crowds that gather on the top and, keen to get a good spot we started our trek up the mountain at 11.30 p.m. armed with water and sleeping bag. The trek up follows the camel path, we were lucky, the brightness of the moon lit our way and added to the silent atmosphere, the mountains at their most beautiful in the colourful hues of the dusky light that lit them, a far cry from the reddish hues of the days heat. It was quite a trek as the path wound its way up the side of the mountain, near the top just before 2 a.m. we reached the steps of repentance, the final challenge to pilgrims looking for forgiveness. Victory was ours 15 minutes later as we took the final step and made the summit. The top of the mountain is surprisingly a little flat, a perfect spot of a church and a snack stall. So having repented we brought cups of hot sweet tea and found a spot to get settled in.
We stopped after a very long hot drive next to Saint Catherine's Monastery at the base of Mt Sinai. Our reason for being here, to climb to the top and take in the sunrise. Mt Sinai is famous according to the book of Exodus as the mountain at which the ten commandments were given to Moses by God. Now, as well as being a destination for the several travellers that make their way to this remote spot, it's also a place of pilgrimage for many who come to feel the magic of this special place.
We had heard talk of large crowds that gather on the top and, keen to get a good spot we started our trek up the mountain at 11.30 p.m. armed with water and sleeping bag. The trek up follows the camel path, we were lucky, the brightness of the moon lit our way and added to the silent atmosphere, the mountains at their most beautiful in the colourful hues of the dusky light that lit them, a far cry from the reddish hues of the days heat. It was quite a trek as the path wound its way up the side of the mountain, near the top just before 2 a.m. we reached the steps of repentance, the final challenge to pilgrims looking for forgiveness. Victory was ours 15 minutes later as we took the final step and made the summit. The top of the mountain is surprisingly a little flat, a perfect spot of a church and a snack stall. So having repented we brought cups of hot sweet tea and found a spot to get settled in.
As we attempted sleep, there was a noticeable
change in air temperature and we were glad that we had bothered to haul
sleeping bags up here. Sleep came and
went, the stars filling the sky and proving a distraction too many, despite the
weariness of the legs and the late hour.
Finally we drifted off, surrounded by just a few fellow pilgrims.
Just before 5 a.m. we awoke to mummers of quiet
chatter all around. There must have been
400 hundred people all here to see one thing.
And it didn't disappoint, standing on the edge looking out over the
endless horizon of the desert plain, the sun began to rise filling the land with
blues, pinks, yellow and bright orange as the light was turned on over Moses'
mountain. Whatever your feelings about
religion no one could have helped but be impressed with the majesty of what we
had been lucky enough to see.
With the crowds this time, we made our way down
the side of the mountain and back to our truck in time for banana pancakes! The moment lost as reality set back in. One final effort took us to St Catherine's monastery
with is beautiful frescos and inlays of gold. Even the chance to see the 'burning bush' which is looking particularly green after all
this time. From here it was time to
leave the interior and make our way to the coast, but the imprint of that
sunrise has stayed in my memories for a long time.
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