Christmas as a foreign language teacher in China

The good thing about keeping a travel journal is that you can look back at days years ago and laugh about the things that happened.  As its fast approaching Christmas time I dug out those journals to remember 2 Christmases spent as a foreign language teacher in China.  Opening up 'the most comfortable notebook I have ever run into' I was sure first of all, the company would have appreciated the fullness of it, as the front cover also promised I would feel like writing with it all the time.  Anyone who's ever spent time in Asia may appreciate such things.

 

As real foreigners in a reasonably sized Chinese town we would be expected to take part in the schools Christmas show.  It was a great opportunity for the school to once again show its foreigners off to prospective wealthy parents.  By now I was used to this, the others weren't.  Daniel from America was particularly upset when no one seemed to appreciate his opera singing. Marlene from Australia enjoyed her moment dueting with the Head teacher until a particularly strong gust of wind blew the perfectly laid carpet right over the top of them.  Myself I showed willing by wearing traditional Chinese dress and badly singing a song that no one had ever heard of.  Am not sure how many prospective parents our efforts brought in but to be fair we weren't required to list any musical or acting skills on the teaching application form.

The audience gathers

I comforted myself in the thought that at least progress had been made from the year before.  During that Christmas the schools energetic music teacher Mr Hu, (a surprisingly large and round man for China) had decided that I would play the violin in the Christmas concert, no consideration was given to the fact I couldn't actually play, he was convinced that all would be alright on the night.  He looked confident, I had no clue.  I felt better knowing that my colleague had to play the Chinese 'Erhu' a 4 stringed instrument, she had no idea either. 

 

When the temperature hit minus 1 degrees Celsius we felt sure the concert would be off, but no, outside we trooped, tiny plastic stalls were brought out and an audience of 1500 people grew.  Tensions rose, people were expecting greatness.  They didn't get it.  Just when we started to play with music propped up in front of us on chairs there was a high gust of snow filled wind and in some kind of comic timing sheets of music went everywhere.  Laughter broke out, students ran after the music and when the rest of the small group of musicians finished a stunned silence filled to air which was awkwardly only broken when some of my lovely primary students started clapping.  

 

Thinking about it, all might have gone better if we had not already had the school staff Christmas party.  This was an interesting event held in the schools canteen.  A place where we often did our best to avoid eating as substances could not always be identified.  This night was different, the kitchen staff has pushed the boat out and dish after dish was brought to round tables and eager staff.  Chop sticks swooped in and feasting began.  Hugh piles of rice, vegetables, steamed fish and saucy meats filled the air with tempting smells and the moreish taste of MSG.  There were chicken feet, there always were, but a veteran of these occasions I had learned to quickly spin the table to the left as these approached.  The highlight of these events was always the baijiu.  For those not in the know this is an extremely strong white alcohol spirit that burns the back of your throat as it goes down.  Its polite to regularly toast the health and well being of colleagues who will pour you a small shot glass that you must down to maintain politeness and show respect.  I had learnt the hard way not to just sit there and take it, as it often proved amusing for the male teachers to see a female drinking.  I went on my own pouring mission.  When the singing started it was a sure sign that we had all had enough!

 

Suitably stuffed, but without the usual Turkey and trimming, there was just one thing left to do.  Yep sixteen classes were waiting for us to attend their individual Christmas parties complete with huge bags of sweets and strange renditions of Santa Claus is coming to town.  It was to be a long evening!

  

 

Essential items for a 1st time travellers bag

With the festive season approaching it's a great time to put some truly useful stuff on your Christmas list, or buy some of these cheap but essential items for any budding travellers in your life.  When thinking of this list I purposely left out all those things that need charging.  I and thousands of others totally managed on trips before mobile phones, I-pods and digital cameras and would go as far to suggest that life will not be over if you left these things at home.  Instead I focused on the small and simple stuff that just makes travelling easier.  I am sure others have their own list but these are the things that always make it out of the travel drawer (yes I have one) and into my bag.  The travel drawer is a miracle of both depth and excitement.  Depth because it seems no matter how many gadgets, memorabilia and ticket stubs you throw in there, there always seems to be room for more.  And excitement because pick anything out of it and you can immediately transported back to a memory, good, bad, funny it doesn't matter, its often a world away. So what are the top 9 items to make it? (no need to round up to ten for affect, backpacking is about essentials)

1) Number one is a padlock and key on string (to wear round your neck or wrist).  This is great to lock all those valuables away in hostel dorm rooms.  Conveniently lockers are often provided per bed, or a slide out draw under the bunks does the same job.  These lockers never come with an actual lock (imagine the number of lost keys) so this is where your personal padlock comes into play.  If lockers are not provided you could always lock your bag instead.  (Note I suggest a key rather than code lock, unless you want to provide entertainment for other travellers watching you  trying to remember how to open the lock after a heavy night)

2) Number two - a small change purse.  This is not just an idea for girls.  If away on a long trip taking in several countries people will soon get annoyed with you if you try to pay with Cordoba rather than Lempira, and contrary to popular belief Dollars aren't welcome everywhere.  So save both embarrassment and pocket searching by putting the currency you actually need in your funky new change purse and put the rest in your bag.

Small packing  = plenty of space for souvenirs

3) Number three - a plastic draw string bag.  Yes this may seem like a strange one, but this comes into its own in hostel bathrooms.  You may have to walk down the corridor for a shower and from many a hostel experience, I have discovered a hook on the back of the door is often all the storage for clothes and towel you get.  Put it all in your handy bag and voila, dry stuff and not a disaster if it falls on the floor whilst you're in the middle of your ablutions.

4) Number four - a travel washing line.  If heading away for a while be sure to stop for a few nights in the same place.  Sending out for laundry is always possible, but for those of us on a tighter budget you can't beat the sink.  However if you're sharing a bathroom your fellow room mates are not going to appreciate the sight of your smalls.  Instead whip out the travel washing line and hang the stuff outside.  Give it a few hours and you'll be ready to move on again smelling much more like someone people will want to sit by.

Staying in comfort - Cambodia

5) Number five - a small torch.  No need for a one with the power of a thousand candles or the size of a truncheon, this is not for protection, but instead so you don't piss off your room mates.  Always handy to be able to see what you are doing especially if arriving late in the evening or leaving to get that bus before first light in the morning.  Also handy when walking back along unpaved roads at night if you value your ability to walk in the morning.

6) Number six - a real watch.  Let's be honest we now almost all rely on our phone alarm to wake us up.  But just in case you run out of battery at an inconvenient time a watch with an in built alarm is a good call.  Think old fashioned digital with real numbers.  As well as being retro cool you'll also not miss that once a week bus out of town.  (tip - maybe remember to turn the on the hour beep off, if you don't want to keep waking up roomies.  Sorry to those in Vienna hostel it was me)

Travelling in Style! - but didn't miss the bus

7) Number seven - a plastic wallet.  You know the one, those slippery wallets that fit in A4 pieces of paper.  This comes in handy for those travelling for a while and often overland.  It's easy to 'lose' things in your rucksack and not being able to find copies of your passport or onward ticket can result in, if you're lucky - the need to buy a very expensive ticket out for proof you will actually leave sometime.  If you're unlucky you could be held up at the border for long enough to prove a point, this is never less than 6 hours!  Instead bring out your plastic wallet of importance and you're the one that's laughing.

Boring border fun

8) Number eight - a travel towel.  These are remarkable things, they roll up super small and come in several sizes.  As well as being light weight, they are quick to dry so you don't get all your clothes damp.  They don't smell for a long time and best of all will always fit in your bag, unlike the towels that many travellers insist on hanging off the outside of their backpack both to dry and seemingly to collect dirt as their bags are thrown on and off buses and trucks.

Russian Stations

9) Number nine - a travel journal and pen.  The final item on the list is arguably the most important, maybe you won't think so at the time, when you have to carry it or at the end of a long few days make yourself write in it.  But believe me several years later you will be glad you took the time to note down the memories, how much things cost, what you ate, who you met, what you saw and any random moments that stick in your mind.  Bring out these journals and be transported back to the time you were pulled off the train at the Russian border, the time when you were invited to a picnic in a field with a friendly bunch of Armenians, or the time in the Syrian desert when people celebrated your group arrival by firing guns in to the air.  I promise you it will be worth it.    

Picnicking with friendly Armenians

So a good list to get you started, am sure others would add alternatives, but stick with the basics and you can't go far wrong.

 

Manchester, time to play

Having visited Manchester every year for the last 7 years it is clear to me why 'Lonely Planet' has named Manchester as one of 2016 must see cities.  It's a place that buzzes with energy and vibrancy whilst at the same time has managed to hang on to some reminders of its industrial past.  The city centre is now a sparkling mix of glass and stainless steel.  New buildings are popping up all the time, seemingly juxtaposing with ease with the legacy that remains from previous prosperous times.

The beautiful building that is the Cotton Exchange now has a new lease of life with a theatre in the round, even in here though if you look up you can see the trading boards that remain from the time when Manchester was known as the 'Cottonopolis' of the world.  Now it's a great place to grab a coffee and admire the architecture. 

Two other buildings that are bound to grab any ones attention are The Urbis and The Printworks.  The first of these being a statement in modernism, this flagship building has presented itself in many guises but now houses the National Football museum.  The Printworks in contrast maintains the facade of when it housed one of Manchester's evening newspapers, inside however presents a different face, an artificial playground has been created, a zone of bars and restaurants in a neon lit American street.  Outside of these those that love shopping have pretty much all you could want in terms of retail therapy, where big names such as Selfridges pull in the crowds and seasonal markets add to the appeal.

 

 

Despite all this modernism I myself prefer an area of Manchester that hasn't been rebranded and polished up, the Northern Quarter.  This area has an edgy vibe to it, old warehouses now house independent designers, jewellery workshops, record shops and retro clothes shops.  Worth checking out here is the Manchester institution 'Afflecks Palace', 3 stories of quirky shops popular with students defining their identity.  Add to this independent bars and wine bars, cafes and restaurants and you have the makings of a fine day.

If its culture that you're after a short walk from the city centre is Castlefield.  The historic heart of Manchester and the site of the worlds' first railway station, this area now houses the MOSI, the museum of science and industry.  Good for a few hours delving into Manchester's past.  Following this hop on the tram and follow the line out to Salford Quays.  This area is completely unrecognisable from 20 years ago.  Now the location of the BBCs new production centre this sparkling media city dominates this part of the city.  But if tours of the studios aren't on your list, two museums also found in the area definitely should be. 

  

The first 'the Lowry' Gallery is located within the theatre of the same name.  Here paintings and drawings of Lowrys 'stick men' help you to understand the Manchester of the past.  Also in this space is a temporary exhibition where you can play with the art, making visual images on screens in front of you.  If still time cross the bridge and head to the Imperial War Museum of the north.  This iconic building is styled to represent the fractured world has been designed along the lines of social history and the large exhibition spaces take you on a journey through 20th century conflicts.  This is one of the most impressive museum spaces I have been to for a while, it's worth being there on the hour for the lights go off and a big picture 'story' is projected throughout the space.  A moving reminder of an alternative side to conflict.

So whether its consumer culture, history, art or architecture you want, Manchester has it all on offer in this 24 hour city.  Make it a weekend trip, that way you will have time to grab a tasty curry in Rusholme too.      

Exploring Istanbul

It's perfectly possible to spend a week in Istanbul just going from tea stop to tea stop, from kebab to kebab, restaurant to restaurant and cafe to cafe.  And why not, this is a great way to see what this beautiful city has to offer.  Lantern clad terraces, outside heaters, and comfy cushions appeal to both locals and tourists alike and even in late October tables are busy.  From your chosen street side venue you can take in the view, the hustle and bustle of the city and its great monuments.  One minute you can be sitting next to the breathtaking Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, a while later in the craziness of the Bazaar, and why not sit late afternoon watching the various boats plying the Bospherous.  Indeed this is what I spent some time doing, the reasonably priced and tasty snacks providing more than enough excuses to stop and take a break and rest my legs after walking what seemed like miles up and down the hills that this ancient city is built on.

Aya Sofya

However, it's impossible to come to this city on the crossroads of Europe and Asia and not go in some of its picture postcard splendours.  Dominating the sky line and the old city area of Sultanahmet and located opposite each other are the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.  These wonders of ancient and Ottoman history are majestic and seemed to be the first places that tourists rush to.  And for good reason, one of these buildings would overshadow what most cities have to offer, but both within a few metres of each other is surely giving Istanbul an unfair advantage. 

Aya Sofya

Getting to the Aya Sofya early in the morning was a good call, the crowds of coach tour groups had still not arrived and this meant the inevitable flags and umbrella waving had not yet begun.      Outside the building glows with a red hue, domes, and minarets frame the structure.  Inside one of the first thing that strikes you are the large circular rings holding light bulb candles suspended from the ceiling by many metal chains.  This adds to the muted lighting of this cavernous building,  follow these metal chains up and you can appreciate the vastness of the space inside. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

Four huge black wooden circular discs emblazed with verses from the Koran adorn the walls, interestingly next to the early church frescos of Mary and Child still found above the alter.  This meeting place of religions seem totally at ease with one another, something reflected in the people of the city itself.  Climbing up a cobbled passage spiralling up and up one side of the building brings you out to the first floor where balconies offer perfectly framed images of the views below. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

In contrast to the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque is a perfect example of orderly and almost symmetrical architecture.  Shoes off and head scarf on, you can't fail to be impressed entering the building.  Intricately decorated with patterns and shapes in colourful tones and gold, thick carpet covers the floor and the whole building hums with the chatter of visitors and worshippers alike.

Blue Mosque at night

 

Inside the Blue Mosque

Not far from both of these sites is another place well worth a look.  The Basilica Cistern recently seen in several feature films has beauty of a different kind.  This subterranean structure is an eerie place lit in a single orange glow from bulbs that light up each individual column.  These marble and granite columns built in 532 are survivors of the largest Byzantine Cistern in Istanbul.  Placed in 12 symmetrical rows these 9m high columns lead out into the darkness.  At the back of the vast space are found two Medusa heads, one upside down and one sideways both supporting huge pillars, no one really knows why.  In the shallow waters below the wooden walkways ghostly fish swim in semi darkness.

Basilica Cistern

In this glowing space there's a cafe, a cool place in both senses of the word to sit and reflect on the wonders seen in the first full day in this, one of the worlds' most giving cities.  With another 3 days here to come, I had the feeling I wouldn't be disappointed.

 

Memories of Indian highlights

Fatehpur Sikri built in 1569, is a gem of a palace.  It glows a burnt red in the full sun of the day and heat radiates off the walls.  This breathtaking palace is intricately designed with beautiful sandstone carvings, patterns and text covering many surfaces.  Really impressive was the fact that the buildings although being a great age had all been designed to get as much natural light as possible, and to let a cooling breeze through.  Despite the burning 40 degrees of the day the shady interiors of the buildings provided some welcome respite from the oppressive heat. 

Fatehpur Sikri

We had arrived mid morning and took a tour, moving from one shady bit to another.  The palace had space for wives, concubines, entertainment and punishment.  It took 8 years to complete but was only inhabited for 15 years or so, as the natural world fought back from these early pioneers of building, and despite building a reservoir, three years of drought meant the palace had to be abandoned.

 

The palace provides outstanding views of the surrounding area, and although not as famous as its other contemporaries stands out as a peaceful and calm retreat.  Gone were the crowds we had experienced in Delhi, the Amber Fort and the Taj Mahal, instead few people milled around at a much more restful pace.  The only real work being done by a man with a broom, fighting a never ending battle against wind and sand.

This visit was a complete contrast to the time spent at the Taj.  We had been there the day before, getting there relatively early by 8am or so.  Of course this is one Indian site that all would recognise and it was slightly surreal to be standing in front of such an iconic building.  The entrance itself is impressive enough, a huge red sandstone archway, adorned with marble and onyx, and passages of the Koran.  Then you see the awesome spectacle of the Taj itself.

Our group was allocated an 'official' photographer and in many respects this added to the memories of the place, not necessarily the photos themselves but the amusement their creation caused.  We were made to pose in all sort of places and positions, fabulously staged shots of reclining, gazing and admiring the view.  Some of my particular favourites include the hands in the 'Namaste' position and of course the almost compulsory shot of looking like you were picking up the Taj in your hand.  There must be millions of versions of this shot in cameras all round the world.

Despite the 'disneyfication' of the photo shoot, the mausoleum itself truly is spectacular.  Gleaming white marble, intricate carvings and symmetry.  Even the gardens were a model of perfection, nothing out of place.  Inside the Taj the temperature falls and the place is filled with the echoes of hundreds of pilgrims to this place.

Stepping out the back the terrace runs the length of the building and the cool marble shaded by the building was providing a perfect spot for sitting.  Large family groups were gathering, each choosing a comfortable spot to rest and make the most of their time.  Ladies in beautiful colourful saris, men in their long sleeve shirts and holy men in burnt orange robes united in the privilege of the visit and the wearing of elasticated cotton shoe covers.    

 

 

 

Later in the evening we drove through a small village settlement and down a dust track road.  All sorts of vehicles were parked up either side, people all getting out and walking one way.  We had all come to the other side of the river to see the Taj from a different angle and to see it glow in the final light of the setting sun.  Unfortunately this was a particularly hazing evening and although a small glow was seen it wasn't the one on the pictures the hawkers were trying to flog on the way back to the bus.  I wasn't too disappointed, how could you be.

 

Two contrasting sites, two amazing views of India, both definitely stops on anyone's itinerary.

 

Travels in Syria

It's several years since I was in Syria, but the images that are filling TV screens at the moment brought back memories, unfortunately not for the right reasons.  Looking through grainy photos and reading travel journals from that time filled my head with stories of adventures and happy times.  My overwhelming memory of Syria is that it was a really welcoming place once we had got through the border.  Many people talked to us, guides were knowledgeable and keen to share stories of places they loved and people in markets and restaurants laughed at our attempts to communicate.

Damascus Souk

Our first stop was in Damascus, we were camping outside the city but got a mini bus into the centre of this bustling place.  Exiting the bus was an assault on the senses, and wandering around was like being hit with so many smells, sights and sounds that it was hard to keep up.  It was also hot, very hot.  We wandered around the Souk, it was a massive place selling all sorts of weird and wonderful things, spices, fabrics, tea making paraphernalia and what seemed like today's special, Stuffed Eagles.   Light rays shone through holes in the roof apparently a legacy of when the Syrian overran the French, today they added a glow in the haze.  Rejecting the stuffed Eagles we made our way to the city's main mosque, one of the most important sites in Islam and splendid in its decoration.

We drove to the ancient city Palmyra, located in the desert.  Again we were supposed to be camping but the wind got up and instead we found ourselves welcomed into the garage /home we luckily came across.  There was a huge Bedouin style tent in the grounds, complete with colourful rugs and cushions to lounge on and weirdly for such a desert location there was also a pool.  The evening was spent with music, hot tea and conversation that continued into the dark of the night.

Palmyra

The next day we explore the Greco Roman ruins of Palmyra.  The sand coloured ruins suddenly appeared on the horizon, something solid in this landscape of moving sand.  An landscape of ancient ruins, a temple, many columns and some engravings.  There were even some remnants of frescos from when the Christians has had control of the temple.  Opposite a road of columns stood the remains of shops and bath houses.  An amphitheatre also remains although some restoration had taken place here.  You could wander freely around and with few other people there you could begin to imagine past splendours.   

Crac des Chevaliers came next.  And for me the highlight of the trip.  I love castles and this is a damn fine one.  Its huge and sits atop of a hill overlooking the ruins of Palmyra below in the valley.  The views from and towards the castle are both spectacular.  Inside there are the remains of lots of rooms, all added at different periods of time and even the remains of a huge table, once rumoured to be table of the Knights of the round table fame.   There's towers to climbs and tunnels to explore.  The best part was that you could go anywhere you like, there was only 10 or so people about so of course games of hide and seek were a necessary part of the day.  Once we tired of that we all climbed to the top of the tallest tower and sat on the vast walls with our legs hanging over the edge, the drop below us falling away into the side of the valley and just sat in silence admiring the view and thinking about how lucky we were to be here.

We explored other towns on this trip but they are for another time.  For now the memories of that great trip remain with me and I just hope one day soon others will get the chance to go and see this beautiful and fascinating country for themselves.

 

Abergavenny food festival - delicious

Everyone loves a good food festival, it's the perfect opportunity to graze and not feel bad about it, tempting treats come from all directions and samples galore pull you in.  One of the best is the Abergavenny food festival usually taking towards the end of September just when people have that into Autumn feeling and its starting to get cooler, this is one event that gets you back outside for that final splurge of sunshine.

The setting is perfect, even without the food festival  Abergavenny is the quintessential market town, enough services to feel bustling but small enough to have that personnel feel, as if you are always going to bump into at least one person you know.  And surrounding the town, the three peaks of the Blorenge, the Sugarloaf and the Skirrid provide awesome views to anyone willing to take on the challenge of walking to the tops.

If lucky, the rain will stay off and bring out the crowds.  The main street becomes full of pop up stalls each offering a variety of wares, the local shops join in too with tables spilling onto the street.  This year was a riot of colour as red and white stripped canvas roofs covered the stalls, helium balloon sellers paced up and down, their balloons glimmering in the sun, and the beautiful hats of Alison Todd's window display adding to the rainbow.

Alison Todd Creations

As well as this other areas set up around the town, the Brewery yard is often the first port of call.  Many cheeses, pies and tasty beverages await here, and having sampled and brought your fill you can choose one of the many stalls offering lunch/dinner treats.  One of the best offering this year was Meat and Greek, making freshly cooked Souvlaki, grilling on hot coals and served in pita with salads and sauces.

Meat and Greek

The Market Hall usually home of Abergavenny's popular Tuesday market is transformed into   the food stage.  This is the place to check out the local fresh talented chefs as well as a few more famous faces.  Whilst watching on the big screen you can enjoy a local beer and be brought cooked samples directly from the stage.  It's even fun to watch people watching, taking notes  for that one time when they will try and recreate what they saw.  If nothing else it's a good place to sit and get some energy back for more intense grazing.

The rest of the market hall is full of stalls, chocolate and homemade pastries seemed to be particularly big at this year's event, but local yogurts, butchery and artisan breads also put in a fine appearance.  The most popular stall as always was the Chase gin and vodka stand.  Little tasters drew big crowds and many left with bags full, Elderflower and Rhubarb being my tipple of choice.

Other must visit locations include the Priory area.  A must for all seafood lovers.  Soft shell crabs, oysters and calamari as well as traditional fish and chips filled the air with delicious smells.  Many a choice the only difficult decision being what to have a which of the wines on offer to have with it.

 

The castle grounds are also transformed.  A stage for live music and debate and yet more food stall.  This area is especially great at night when crowds party into the night listening to live bands the back drop of the castle proving an atmospheric setting.  One Saturday night this is also the location of a large fireworks display that can be seen all over town.

 

One final mention must go to the Mushroom man.  A man that makes mushrooms out of wood.  Who knows what for but hey why not? he is very popular and after all everyone should make room for the whimsical.

There only two things I can add.  Firstly - if you can make it to the festival stay the weekend and try out some of the local bars and restaurants.  The Farmers arms does a fine pint, and Pizzorante makes the best Italian food I have eaten in the UK.  Make sure you have the garlic bread!  

And secondly this one's for the organisers, next year can you persuade the stall owners to have small sample dishes for a pound or two? after all with so much to choose from and only 2 lunchs and dinners to fit it all it, it's a difficult choice to reject some things that look so delicious.  Cheaper smaller samples are definitely the way forward.

Come next year, I'll see you there!  

 

 

Relaxing on Roatan Island, Honduras

Roatan Island at approximately 33 miles long and 4 miles wide is the largest of Honduras' Bay Islands.  Located in the Caribbean Sea this tropical island is only an hour boat ride from the mainland, or a short flight from Houston.  However unlike other more famous Caribbean Islands this is only just started to be discovered by tourists.  True, backpackers have known about this secret waiting to be explored for decades, but now's the time to go before everyone else hears about it.

Getting the boat to Roatan

And what a treat, bath water warm crystal blue waters and white sandy beaches are on offer, and there's no fighting for space for your umbrella, indeed you could even have whole stretches to yourself.  One of the best beaches on the Island is located at the South West tip at West Bay, a huge curve of sand lined with beach bars and restaurants and several dive centres.  It's possible to hire snorkelling gear and swim from the shore to see vast coral gardens, large brain coral, fan coral and many other species just a few metres under the surface.  If you don't fancy the 10 minute swim out, there are numerous men with boats just waiting to take you.  For $35 for three people, for two hours, snorkelling gear included, we were able to get a little further out, where the coral was even more vibrant and had not been damaged by careless feet.

West Bay

Divers have know about this spot for years, indeed its one of the best value places in the world to learn to dive.  And the reason for this is that Roatan just happens to be located on the Mesoamerican Barrier reef, the largest in the Caribbean Sea and second largest barrier reef in the world after Australia's Great Barrier Reef.  Being a snorkeler not a diver I hoped I wouldn't miss out, but I needn't have worried, just a short 5 minute boat ride from the shore shoals of fish can be seen close to the surface.  In fact the water is so clear that the visibility is excellent, you can even wave at the divers several metres below.

We were warned to pick our visiting day to West Bay carefully as once a week, a cruise ship arrive and disgorges a few thousand people for a couple of hours.  Spend, eat, drink, swim and then just a fast as they arrived they disappear.  This is great for the people who live and work on the island, but for the rest of us were glad they weren't going to spoil the isolated paradise for longer.

West End

We stayed in West End, just round the coast from West Bay, but with a quieter laid back feel.  It reminded me of some of the coastal towns in Vietnam and Thailand before they were 'discovered'.  This place is still really only for budget travellers, but with plenty of variable quality accommodation to choose from there's no need to suffer in a hot dorm room in tropical heat.  There's just one 'main street' which runs parallel to the beach and this is where all the action takes place.  There's a few supermarkets and many souvenir shops, all selling the same kind of things, great price hammocks and the 'uniform' clothes and beads of the 'backpacker'.

There's also the cafe bars serving banana pancakes for breakfast and chilled beer for the rest of the day, as well as numerous good quality and reasonably priced restaurants.  One deserving a special mention is Creole's Rotisserie Chicken, packed with locals and tourist alike every evening, you can smell it before you arrive.  Plastic tables and chairs overflow from the main restaurant as everyone crams in to sample the roast chicken, and salads.  Later in the evening the bars come alive with music, from expected stereotypical reggae tunes to the 'Blue Marlins' karaoke night.

 

Could you spend the week here? go on then.  Even longer and you could explore the rest of the Bay Islands.  Just Ssshhh, don't tell everyone.

Roatan from the air