Exploring Istanbul

It's perfectly possible to spend a week in Istanbul just going from tea stop to tea stop, from kebab to kebab, restaurant to restaurant and cafe to cafe.  And why not, this is a great way to see what this beautiful city has to offer.  Lantern clad terraces, outside heaters, and comfy cushions appeal to both locals and tourists alike and even in late October tables are busy.  From your chosen street side venue you can take in the view, the hustle and bustle of the city and its great monuments.  One minute you can be sitting next to the breathtaking Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, a while later in the craziness of the Bazaar, and why not sit late afternoon watching the various boats plying the Bospherous.  Indeed this is what I spent some time doing, the reasonably priced and tasty snacks providing more than enough excuses to stop and take a break and rest my legs after walking what seemed like miles up and down the hills that this ancient city is built on.

Aya Sofya

However, it's impossible to come to this city on the crossroads of Europe and Asia and not go in some of its picture postcard splendours.  Dominating the sky line and the old city area of Sultanahmet and located opposite each other are the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.  These wonders of ancient and Ottoman history are majestic and seemed to be the first places that tourists rush to.  And for good reason, one of these buildings would overshadow what most cities have to offer, but both within a few metres of each other is surely giving Istanbul an unfair advantage. 

Aya Sofya

Getting to the Aya Sofya early in the morning was a good call, the crowds of coach tour groups had still not arrived and this meant the inevitable flags and umbrella waving had not yet begun.      Outside the building glows with a red hue, domes, and minarets frame the structure.  Inside one of the first thing that strikes you are the large circular rings holding light bulb candles suspended from the ceiling by many metal chains.  This adds to the muted lighting of this cavernous building,  follow these metal chains up and you can appreciate the vastness of the space inside. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

Four huge black wooden circular discs emblazed with verses from the Koran adorn the walls, interestingly next to the early church frescos of Mary and Child still found above the alter.  This meeting place of religions seem totally at ease with one another, something reflected in the people of the city itself.  Climbing up a cobbled passage spiralling up and up one side of the building brings you out to the first floor where balconies offer perfectly framed images of the views below. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

In contrast to the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque is a perfect example of orderly and almost symmetrical architecture.  Shoes off and head scarf on, you can't fail to be impressed entering the building.  Intricately decorated with patterns and shapes in colourful tones and gold, thick carpet covers the floor and the whole building hums with the chatter of visitors and worshippers alike.

Blue Mosque at night

 

Inside the Blue Mosque

Not far from both of these sites is another place well worth a look.  The Basilica Cistern recently seen in several feature films has beauty of a different kind.  This subterranean structure is an eerie place lit in a single orange glow from bulbs that light up each individual column.  These marble and granite columns built in 532 are survivors of the largest Byzantine Cistern in Istanbul.  Placed in 12 symmetrical rows these 9m high columns lead out into the darkness.  At the back of the vast space are found two Medusa heads, one upside down and one sideways both supporting huge pillars, no one really knows why.  In the shallow waters below the wooden walkways ghostly fish swim in semi darkness.

Basilica Cistern

In this glowing space there's a cafe, a cool place in both senses of the word to sit and reflect on the wonders seen in the first full day in this, one of the worlds' most giving cities.  With another 3 days here to come, I had the feeling I wouldn't be disappointed.