Sunday, 18 October 2015

Memories of Indian highlights

Fatehpur Sikri built in 1569, is a gem of a palace.  It glows a burnt red in the full sun of the day and heat radiates off the walls.  This breathtaking palace is intricately designed with beautiful sandstone carvings, patterns and text covering many surfaces.  Really impressive was the fact that the buildings although being a great age had all been designed to get as much natural light as possible, and to let a cooling breeze through.  Despite the burning 40 degrees of the day the shady interiors of the buildings provided some welcome respite from the oppressive heat. 

Fatehpur Sikri
We had arrived mid morning and took a tour, moving from one shady bit to another.  The palace had space for wives, concubines, entertainment and punishment.  It took 8 years to complete but was only inhabited for 15 years or so, as the natural world fought back from these early pioneers of building, and despite building a reservoir, three years of drought meant the palace had to be abandoned.

 
The palace provides outstanding views of the surrounding area, and although not as famous as its other contemporaries stands out as a peaceful and calm retreat.  Gone were the crowds we had experienced in Delhi, the Amber Fort and the Taj Mahal, instead few people milled around at a much more restful pace.  The only real work being done by a man with a broom, fighting a never ending battle against wind and sand.


This visit was a complete contrast to the time spent at the Taj.  We had been there the day before, getting there relatively early by 8am or so.  Of course this is one Indian site that all would recognise and it was slightly surreal to be standing in front of such an iconic building.  The entrance itself is impressive enough, a huge red sandstone archway, adorned with marble and onyx, and passages of the Koran.  Then you see the awesome spectacle of the Taj itself.



Our group was allocated an 'official' photographer and in many respects this added to the memories of the place, not necessarily the photos themselves but the amusement their creation caused.  We were made to pose in all sort of places and positions, fabulously staged shots of reclining, gazing and admiring the view.  Some of my particular favourites include the hands in the 'Namaste' position and of course the almost compulsory shot of looking like you were picking up the Taj in your hand.  There must be millions of versions of this shot in cameras all round the world.


Despite the 'disneyfication' of the photo shoot, the mausoleum itself truly is spectacular.  Gleaming white marble, intricate carvings and symmetry.  Even the gardens were a model of perfection, nothing out of place.  Inside the Taj the temperature falls and the place is filled with the echoes of hundreds of pilgrims to this place.


Stepping out the back the terrace runs the length of the building and the cool marble shaded by the building was providing a perfect spot for sitting.  Large family groups were gathering, each choosing a comfortable spot to rest and make the most of their time.  Ladies in beautiful colourful saris, men in their long sleeve shirts and holy men in burnt orange robes united in the privilege of the visit and the wearing of elasticated cotton shoe covers.    

 
 
 
Later in the evening we drove through a small village settlement and down a dust track road.  All sorts of vehicles were parked up either side, people all getting out and walking one way.  We had all come to the other side of the river to see the Taj from a different angle and to see it glow in the final light of the setting sun.  Unfortunately this was a particularly hazing evening and although a small glow was seen it wasn't the one on the pictures the hawkers were trying to flog on the way back to the bus.  I wasn't too disappointed, how could you be.
 
Two contrasting sites, two amazing views of India, both definitely stops on anyone's itinerary.

 

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