The best of Baku

Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan and the largest city in the Caucasus' certainly stands out.  It's a buzzing metropolis where flashy opulence seemingly goes hand in hand with tradition.  It's a place that seems to span the divide between east and west in an easy going and welcoming manner.  The historic heart of the city, complete with walls and narrow alleys showcase the best of the old city and its heritage.  Here it's easy to get lost in the maze of cobbled lanes, and narrow stone steps leading from street to street.  Look up and the houses are adorned with cast iron balconies, paint chipping and walls flaking, shade is provided naturally in these narrow passages a welcome relief from temperatures in the high thirties.  It's worth seeking out a room here to enjoy the best the area has to offer both day and night.  Small boutiques and restaurants hidden in cellars are there to tempt. 

 

Not to be missed is the Shirvanshahs Palace, built in the 15th century and restored complete with ceremonial courts, carvings and great views out to Baku Bay beyond.  The maidens tower also looked promising, but unfortunately was closed for renovation.

Maidens Tower

Breaking free from the old city walls and entering the new modern heart of Baku is a pleasant surprise.  Wide tree lined boulevards surround leafy squares and a cosmopolitan city awaits.  Exceptionally well dressed locals parade round the square in the latest designer fashions.  Mothers in super high shoes show amazing dexterity chasing their small children round the park.  Whilst other locals take in the designer boutiques that line the main roads and luxury cars are seen parked along the waterfront.  All of this a strange juxtaposition with the old and dated tower blocks, the remnants of the cities soviet past, that can still be seen in some neighbourhoods.  The best vantage point for all this is from above and trendy bars selling cold beer and cocktails look down over the main square, complete with glass balconies and comfortable sofas.

Modern architecture is certainly a feature of the 'new Baku' and the Heydar Aliyev cultural centre is a gem of a building. 

Its distinctive white curves and flowing lines reject all form of angles, it's not often you can sit on the side walls of a building, but the bright white tiles and sleek exterior are impressive and provide for some fun photos.

Heydar Aliyev Cultural Centre

Another group of buildings that are difficult to avoid are the Flame towers, 3 of the tallest buildings in Baku, each covered in LED screens that light up at night and alternate in their display of moving flames and the waving flag of Azerbaijan.  It's an impressive site on Baku's new modernist skyline.  One of the building houses the 5 star Fairmount hotel and even as badly dressed backpackers we managed to blag our way in an to get a hotel tour.  If you can afford it, a stay here would provide great views and a fair amount of comfort, although they are clearly expecting everyone to drive up as crossing the busy duel lane highway in from proved to be quite a challenge.

Flame Towers

One of the standout selling points of Baku is its position on the Caspian sea.  Evidence of its oil rich industry can still be seen, but somehow this has been moved further round the bay and instead the shore is lined with wide tree lined, shady parks and pedestrian only walkways stretching from a brand new Mall and Freedom Square at one end to Azerbaijan's giant flag pole and exhibition centre at the other.  This 3km curve is  a great place to sit and looks at locals enjoying activities whatever time of day, and is especially welcoming in the evening, when the heat of the day disappears and the temperatures become more comfortable.  At the nearest point to the underpass into the city centre are also some bars and restaurants full of families of all ages late into the night.

On the final day of our travels in Azerbaijan, we decided to do something very touristy and surreal but surprisingly enjoyable.  We look a boat ride in the mini canals built into the promenade, a Disney kind of experience, complete with gondolas and bridges.  Definitely not something we imagined doing but somehow seemingly appropriate in this the best of cities.

Visiting the Kent coast, UK

It's not as spectacular as Cornwall, or as rugged as the western parts of Scotland, or as gorgeous as the Welsh coast with is sweeping beaches.  But if you look closely enough you can find parts of the Kent coast with their own appeal.  It's easy to take in the three town of Margate, Broadstairs and Ramsgate in a couple of days, you can even walk or cycle between them if you're feeling energetic.



Margate seafront

First stop Margate, we had heard of the recently renovated and opened 'Dreamland'.  The website promised much and who can resist such a name.  Dreamland still needs some work if it really is going to be the place of dreams, although it's possible to see what they are trying to  achieve.  Old seaside fairground rides have been redeveloped and spruced up, offering a quaint charm to the day tripper.  The colours and paintings of the rides conjures up images of old seaside postcards of a time when a week at the British seaside was still a thing.  There is the carousel, the helter-skelter, the big wheel and the most exciting of all a wooden roller coaster seemingly attracting kids, teenagers and adults alike.  If they can sort out the surrounding environment they might be on to something here.

Dreamland

The seafront was nice enough to amble along, the town looked tired, a seaside resort in winter can be a grey thing.  Boarded up ice cream parlours, cafes and chip shops, and closed arcades.  It all seemed a bit sad.  I am sure things would be different in the summer when the place gets weekenders from London, seeking an escape from the city and some sea air.  There were a couple of places that seemed to be attracting the visitors braving the high winds and chilly air.  The first was the Turner Contemporary gallery a new interesting looking building on the water front, a place of temporary exhibitions of  modern art, and sorry to say not a Turner in sight, just the type of art that gets people saying 'what's that?'.  The old town still offered up some small town fishing port charm,  old brick buildings with large sash windows lined narrow streets and offered a glimpse of better times in the past.  We decided to move on.

Dreamland

We were staying in Broadstairs in The Royal Albion hotel.  Right on the sea front this pub / restaurant with rooms has balconies with sweeping views of Viking bay, and a terrace that in the summer would offer a great space for summer drinks with friends.  The food was good tasty pub food, pies, fish and chips, just right after a long walk on the beach and promenade below.  The town is built on the cliff above and steep steps or weirdly a lift carry you to the beach below.  This is lined with colourful beach huts, small boats and even some old fashioned swing boats.

Broadstairs

A good idea is to follow the coast around, handily a seawall has been built to provide protection from coastal erosion and this doubles up as a promenade walk way just a metre or so above the beach.  Walking out that day we saw only other hardy types, all wrapped up in hats and scarves from the bracing sea air.  The following morning the sun came out and with it more tourists to enjoy the beach.

There's a good choice of pubs and several appealing looking places to eat in Broadstairs, this combined with its sandy beach makes it far more appealing for an overnight stay than Margate.

Further round the coast is Ramsgate.  We had the idea to visit here after the 'Lifeboat' charity had such an appealing picture of it on its 2015 calendar.  It was raining when we arrived but we parked up to explore.  The harbour itself is nice enough, good use has been made of the arches around the harbour, each now enclosed with buildings going back into the cliff.  Workshops, sail makers, cafes are all set up here providing services to locals and tourists alike.  The harbour is pretty big and you can walk down sides of the harbour arms which jut out to sea.  From the end you can look back at Ramsgate and see its long beach and town rising above.  It wasn't quite as picturesque as the calendar made it seem.

Kent coast for a few days, yes maybe, a week and I would head to Dorset instead.

 

Travelling the long way -Trans-Mongolian train - Beijing to Moscow

This was the stuff of travel programmes, old fashioned novels and views from coffee table books.  I couldn't believe we were finally boarding the train, a journey of five and a half days that would take us out from Beijing across China to Mongolia, where we would cross great plains and vast open spaces before eventually arriving in Moscow.  Of course we could have flown, but that's not what great journeys are about is it.

Buying our tickets at some back of beyond travel agency in Shanghai meant we were doing the trip ourselves.  Letters of 'invitation' had been downloaded from a promising website, and now two pristine full page visa stickers graced our passports, our official permission to enter two of the most closed and intriguing countries at the time.

We had a compartment back in second class, bunks enough for four, the three of us and an unsuspecting young Chinese man 'Fu' who was leaving China for the first time and was to be an interesting travelling companion.  Unlike the Chinese trains we had been travelling on with their open corridors of bunks, our room even had a lockable door and the first class facilities of a mirror, bed lights and a small table fixed to the wall.  This was to be our space for the best part of a week.

 

The train pulled out of the station at 7.40am, we celebrated with an iced coffee as we stared out of the window as the train past the Great Wall.  Sitting by the window just looking would take up much of our time over the next few days.  Magnificent views were not hard to come by on this trip, remote farmland, vast open spaces with the occasional isolated settlement, horses galloping across the plains, cattle grazing, a yurt in the middle of nothingness.  Forests, fields, train stations in places with no signs of human habitation, and the vast lakes of southern Russia.  Just one day of this would have been awesome, 5 days seemed over indulgent somehow.  What a privilege to be able to see all of these things.

 

Of course sitting on a train for 5 and a half days does sometimes get tiresome.  We created activities to keep us occupied.  Reading, diary writing, cards, a Chinese board game and thinking ahead we had even brought a guitar.

But a lot of our entertainment came from our fellow passengers, we were the only Westerners on board.  The rest of the train was full of Chinese and Russian men, travelling to and from work contracts.  The Chinese quickly settled in, we must have missed the memo, as soon as we pulled out of Beijing station travel pyjamas appeared on all and were to remain until Moscow.  We also missed the bit of info about bringing a lot of food on board.  Many, many pot noodles were consumed on the train and the smell of instant noodles became our constant travelling companion.  Of course with the number of Russians on board there was also a fair amount of drinking.  The Chinese with their Baijiu and the Russians with bottles of Vodka and as the journey progressed the mixing of both as new found friends invited each other for parties in their cabins. 

Changing the 'bogies' at the border

Our new cabin friend 'Fu', allowed out for the first time took the opportunity to get involved with these activities.  Late one night he sneaked in like a naughty child sneaking home late and trying not to wake his parents, something he failed in spectacularly as he threw up all over the floor.  His devastation of the night before was obvious the following morning and we spent the rest of the day turning down constant offers of noodles and feed.  We were slightly pleased that it didn't stop his enthusiasm the following evening, a break out from the constrains and expectations of being a Chinese man in a sometimes controlling society.

 

We sometimes ate in the dining car with its yellowing 'lace' curtains, Formica tables and formidable waitress.  It was never full, food here was not tasty or particularly cheap.  Strangely we could see the appeal of the noodles.  Instead we took the opportunity to jump off the train at its daily stop where ever that may be and buy items from the ladies that had baskets of goods, their offerings changing at each different stops.  Meals were created with bread, dumplings and potatoes, all brought hot from the baskets.

 

The time passed with surprising speed as the days fell into an easy routine of sleep, eat, look, play.  And before we knew it we were approaching the outskirts of Moscow and the next stage in our journey the long way home.  Would I do this journey again? in a shot if I got the chance.  It's rare to find the time in this life just to sit and stare and there's no better place to do this than from the carriage of a train ,with its constant and reassuring noise as the train winds its way across great distances into the horizon of bright blue vast open skies ahead.    

         

Christmas as a foreign language teacher in China

The good thing about keeping a travel journal is that you can look back at days years ago and laugh about the things that happened.  As its fast approaching Christmas time I dug out those journals to remember 2 Christmases spent as a foreign language teacher in China.  Opening up 'the most comfortable notebook I have ever run into' I was sure first of all, the company would have appreciated the fullness of it, as the front cover also promised I would feel like writing with it all the time.  Anyone who's ever spent time in Asia may appreciate such things.

 

As real foreigners in a reasonably sized Chinese town we would be expected to take part in the schools Christmas show.  It was a great opportunity for the school to once again show its foreigners off to prospective wealthy parents.  By now I was used to this, the others weren't.  Daniel from America was particularly upset when no one seemed to appreciate his opera singing. Marlene from Australia enjoyed her moment dueting with the Head teacher until a particularly strong gust of wind blew the perfectly laid carpet right over the top of them.  Myself I showed willing by wearing traditional Chinese dress and badly singing a song that no one had ever heard of.  Am not sure how many prospective parents our efforts brought in but to be fair we weren't required to list any musical or acting skills on the teaching application form.

The audience gathers

I comforted myself in the thought that at least progress had been made from the year before.  During that Christmas the schools energetic music teacher Mr Hu, (a surprisingly large and round man for China) had decided that I would play the violin in the Christmas concert, no consideration was given to the fact I couldn't actually play, he was convinced that all would be alright on the night.  He looked confident, I had no clue.  I felt better knowing that my colleague had to play the Chinese 'Erhu' a 4 stringed instrument, she had no idea either. 

 

When the temperature hit minus 1 degrees Celsius we felt sure the concert would be off, but no, outside we trooped, tiny plastic stalls were brought out and an audience of 1500 people grew.  Tensions rose, people were expecting greatness.  They didn't get it.  Just when we started to play with music propped up in front of us on chairs there was a high gust of snow filled wind and in some kind of comic timing sheets of music went everywhere.  Laughter broke out, students ran after the music and when the rest of the small group of musicians finished a stunned silence filled to air which was awkwardly only broken when some of my lovely primary students started clapping.  

 

Thinking about it, all might have gone better if we had not already had the school staff Christmas party.  This was an interesting event held in the schools canteen.  A place where we often did our best to avoid eating as substances could not always be identified.  This night was different, the kitchen staff has pushed the boat out and dish after dish was brought to round tables and eager staff.  Chop sticks swooped in and feasting began.  Hugh piles of rice, vegetables, steamed fish and saucy meats filled the air with tempting smells and the moreish taste of MSG.  There were chicken feet, there always were, but a veteran of these occasions I had learned to quickly spin the table to the left as these approached.  The highlight of these events was always the baijiu.  For those not in the know this is an extremely strong white alcohol spirit that burns the back of your throat as it goes down.  Its polite to regularly toast the health and well being of colleagues who will pour you a small shot glass that you must down to maintain politeness and show respect.  I had learnt the hard way not to just sit there and take it, as it often proved amusing for the male teachers to see a female drinking.  I went on my own pouring mission.  When the singing started it was a sure sign that we had all had enough!

 

Suitably stuffed, but without the usual Turkey and trimming, there was just one thing left to do.  Yep sixteen classes were waiting for us to attend their individual Christmas parties complete with huge bags of sweets and strange renditions of Santa Claus is coming to town.  It was to be a long evening!

  

 

Essential items for a 1st time travellers bag

With the festive season approaching it's a great time to put some truly useful stuff on your Christmas list, or buy some of these cheap but essential items for any budding travellers in your life.  When thinking of this list I purposely left out all those things that need charging.  I and thousands of others totally managed on trips before mobile phones, I-pods and digital cameras and would go as far to suggest that life will not be over if you left these things at home.  Instead I focused on the small and simple stuff that just makes travelling easier.  I am sure others have their own list but these are the things that always make it out of the travel drawer (yes I have one) and into my bag.  The travel drawer is a miracle of both depth and excitement.  Depth because it seems no matter how many gadgets, memorabilia and ticket stubs you throw in there, there always seems to be room for more.  And excitement because pick anything out of it and you can immediately transported back to a memory, good, bad, funny it doesn't matter, its often a world away. So what are the top 9 items to make it? (no need to round up to ten for affect, backpacking is about essentials)

1) Number one is a padlock and key on string (to wear round your neck or wrist).  This is great to lock all those valuables away in hostel dorm rooms.  Conveniently lockers are often provided per bed, or a slide out draw under the bunks does the same job.  These lockers never come with an actual lock (imagine the number of lost keys) so this is where your personal padlock comes into play.  If lockers are not provided you could always lock your bag instead.  (Note I suggest a key rather than code lock, unless you want to provide entertainment for other travellers watching you  trying to remember how to open the lock after a heavy night)

2) Number two - a small change purse.  This is not just an idea for girls.  If away on a long trip taking in several countries people will soon get annoyed with you if you try to pay with Cordoba rather than Lempira, and contrary to popular belief Dollars aren't welcome everywhere.  So save both embarrassment and pocket searching by putting the currency you actually need in your funky new change purse and put the rest in your bag.

Small packing  = plenty of space for souvenirs

3) Number three - a plastic draw string bag.  Yes this may seem like a strange one, but this comes into its own in hostel bathrooms.  You may have to walk down the corridor for a shower and from many a hostel experience, I have discovered a hook on the back of the door is often all the storage for clothes and towel you get.  Put it all in your handy bag and voila, dry stuff and not a disaster if it falls on the floor whilst you're in the middle of your ablutions.

4) Number four - a travel washing line.  If heading away for a while be sure to stop for a few nights in the same place.  Sending out for laundry is always possible, but for those of us on a tighter budget you can't beat the sink.  However if you're sharing a bathroom your fellow room mates are not going to appreciate the sight of your smalls.  Instead whip out the travel washing line and hang the stuff outside.  Give it a few hours and you'll be ready to move on again smelling much more like someone people will want to sit by.

Staying in comfort - Cambodia

5) Number five - a small torch.  No need for a one with the power of a thousand candles or the size of a truncheon, this is not for protection, but instead so you don't piss off your room mates.  Always handy to be able to see what you are doing especially if arriving late in the evening or leaving to get that bus before first light in the morning.  Also handy when walking back along unpaved roads at night if you value your ability to walk in the morning.

6) Number six - a real watch.  Let's be honest we now almost all rely on our phone alarm to wake us up.  But just in case you run out of battery at an inconvenient time a watch with an in built alarm is a good call.  Think old fashioned digital with real numbers.  As well as being retro cool you'll also not miss that once a week bus out of town.  (tip - maybe remember to turn the on the hour beep off, if you don't want to keep waking up roomies.  Sorry to those in Vienna hostel it was me)

Travelling in Style! - but didn't miss the bus

7) Number seven - a plastic wallet.  You know the one, those slippery wallets that fit in A4 pieces of paper.  This comes in handy for those travelling for a while and often overland.  It's easy to 'lose' things in your rucksack and not being able to find copies of your passport or onward ticket can result in, if you're lucky - the need to buy a very expensive ticket out for proof you will actually leave sometime.  If you're unlucky you could be held up at the border for long enough to prove a point, this is never less than 6 hours!  Instead bring out your plastic wallet of importance and you're the one that's laughing.

Boring border fun

8) Number eight - a travel towel.  These are remarkable things, they roll up super small and come in several sizes.  As well as being light weight, they are quick to dry so you don't get all your clothes damp.  They don't smell for a long time and best of all will always fit in your bag, unlike the towels that many travellers insist on hanging off the outside of their backpack both to dry and seemingly to collect dirt as their bags are thrown on and off buses and trucks.

Russian Stations

9) Number nine - a travel journal and pen.  The final item on the list is arguably the most important, maybe you won't think so at the time, when you have to carry it or at the end of a long few days make yourself write in it.  But believe me several years later you will be glad you took the time to note down the memories, how much things cost, what you ate, who you met, what you saw and any random moments that stick in your mind.  Bring out these journals and be transported back to the time you were pulled off the train at the Russian border, the time when you were invited to a picnic in a field with a friendly bunch of Armenians, or the time in the Syrian desert when people celebrated your group arrival by firing guns in to the air.  I promise you it will be worth it.    

Picnicking with friendly Armenians

So a good list to get you started, am sure others would add alternatives, but stick with the basics and you can't go far wrong.

 

Manchester, time to play

Having visited Manchester every year for the last 7 years it is clear to me why 'Lonely Planet' has named Manchester as one of 2016 must see cities.  It's a place that buzzes with energy and vibrancy whilst at the same time has managed to hang on to some reminders of its industrial past.  The city centre is now a sparkling mix of glass and stainless steel.  New buildings are popping up all the time, seemingly juxtaposing with ease with the legacy that remains from previous prosperous times.

The beautiful building that is the Cotton Exchange now has a new lease of life with a theatre in the round, even in here though if you look up you can see the trading boards that remain from the time when Manchester was known as the 'Cottonopolis' of the world.  Now it's a great place to grab a coffee and admire the architecture. 

Two other buildings that are bound to grab any ones attention are The Urbis and The Printworks.  The first of these being a statement in modernism, this flagship building has presented itself in many guises but now houses the National Football museum.  The Printworks in contrast maintains the facade of when it housed one of Manchester's evening newspapers, inside however presents a different face, an artificial playground has been created, a zone of bars and restaurants in a neon lit American street.  Outside of these those that love shopping have pretty much all you could want in terms of retail therapy, where big names such as Selfridges pull in the crowds and seasonal markets add to the appeal.

 

 

Despite all this modernism I myself prefer an area of Manchester that hasn't been rebranded and polished up, the Northern Quarter.  This area has an edgy vibe to it, old warehouses now house independent designers, jewellery workshops, record shops and retro clothes shops.  Worth checking out here is the Manchester institution 'Afflecks Palace', 3 stories of quirky shops popular with students defining their identity.  Add to this independent bars and wine bars, cafes and restaurants and you have the makings of a fine day.

If its culture that you're after a short walk from the city centre is Castlefield.  The historic heart of Manchester and the site of the worlds' first railway station, this area now houses the MOSI, the museum of science and industry.  Good for a few hours delving into Manchester's past.  Following this hop on the tram and follow the line out to Salford Quays.  This area is completely unrecognisable from 20 years ago.  Now the location of the BBCs new production centre this sparkling media city dominates this part of the city.  But if tours of the studios aren't on your list, two museums also found in the area definitely should be. 

  

The first 'the Lowry' Gallery is located within the theatre of the same name.  Here paintings and drawings of Lowrys 'stick men' help you to understand the Manchester of the past.  Also in this space is a temporary exhibition where you can play with the art, making visual images on screens in front of you.  If still time cross the bridge and head to the Imperial War Museum of the north.  This iconic building is styled to represent the fractured world has been designed along the lines of social history and the large exhibition spaces take you on a journey through 20th century conflicts.  This is one of the most impressive museum spaces I have been to for a while, it's worth being there on the hour for the lights go off and a big picture 'story' is projected throughout the space.  A moving reminder of an alternative side to conflict.

So whether its consumer culture, history, art or architecture you want, Manchester has it all on offer in this 24 hour city.  Make it a weekend trip, that way you will have time to grab a tasty curry in Rusholme too.      

Exploring Istanbul

It's perfectly possible to spend a week in Istanbul just going from tea stop to tea stop, from kebab to kebab, restaurant to restaurant and cafe to cafe.  And why not, this is a great way to see what this beautiful city has to offer.  Lantern clad terraces, outside heaters, and comfy cushions appeal to both locals and tourists alike and even in late October tables are busy.  From your chosen street side venue you can take in the view, the hustle and bustle of the city and its great monuments.  One minute you can be sitting next to the breathtaking Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque, a while later in the craziness of the Bazaar, and why not sit late afternoon watching the various boats plying the Bospherous.  Indeed this is what I spent some time doing, the reasonably priced and tasty snacks providing more than enough excuses to stop and take a break and rest my legs after walking what seemed like miles up and down the hills that this ancient city is built on.

Aya Sofya

However, it's impossible to come to this city on the crossroads of Europe and Asia and not go in some of its picture postcard splendours.  Dominating the sky line and the old city area of Sultanahmet and located opposite each other are the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque.  These wonders of ancient and Ottoman history are majestic and seemed to be the first places that tourists rush to.  And for good reason, one of these buildings would overshadow what most cities have to offer, but both within a few metres of each other is surely giving Istanbul an unfair advantage. 

Aya Sofya

Getting to the Aya Sofya early in the morning was a good call, the crowds of coach tour groups had still not arrived and this meant the inevitable flags and umbrella waving had not yet begun.      Outside the building glows with a red hue, domes, and minarets frame the structure.  Inside one of the first thing that strikes you are the large circular rings holding light bulb candles suspended from the ceiling by many metal chains.  This adds to the muted lighting of this cavernous building,  follow these metal chains up and you can appreciate the vastness of the space inside. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

Four huge black wooden circular discs emblazed with verses from the Koran adorn the walls, interestingly next to the early church frescos of Mary and Child still found above the alter.  This meeting place of religions seem totally at ease with one another, something reflected in the people of the city itself.  Climbing up a cobbled passage spiralling up and up one side of the building brings you out to the first floor where balconies offer perfectly framed images of the views below. 

Inside the Aya Sofya

In contrast to the Aya Sofya, the Blue Mosque is a perfect example of orderly and almost symmetrical architecture.  Shoes off and head scarf on, you can't fail to be impressed entering the building.  Intricately decorated with patterns and shapes in colourful tones and gold, thick carpet covers the floor and the whole building hums with the chatter of visitors and worshippers alike.

Blue Mosque at night

 

Inside the Blue Mosque

Not far from both of these sites is another place well worth a look.  The Basilica Cistern recently seen in several feature films has beauty of a different kind.  This subterranean structure is an eerie place lit in a single orange glow from bulbs that light up each individual column.  These marble and granite columns built in 532 are survivors of the largest Byzantine Cistern in Istanbul.  Placed in 12 symmetrical rows these 9m high columns lead out into the darkness.  At the back of the vast space are found two Medusa heads, one upside down and one sideways both supporting huge pillars, no one really knows why.  In the shallow waters below the wooden walkways ghostly fish swim in semi darkness.

Basilica Cistern

In this glowing space there's a cafe, a cool place in both senses of the word to sit and reflect on the wonders seen in the first full day in this, one of the worlds' most giving cities.  With another 3 days here to come, I had the feeling I wouldn't be disappointed.