Luxembourg, just what's needed in a city

We discovered the lift in the cliff by accident, initially it looked like a lift down into a car park, but we thought we would give it a go.  We had seen a very tempting bar, with terrace alongside the river from the top of the gorge and were wondering how to get to it.  The aforementioned lift brought us out just opposite, very convenient we thought, as we settled in for a local beer in the sunshine at 'Scotts bar'.

This part of Luxembourg is called the 'Grund' and it's easy to miss if you just follow the tourists, most of whom seem content jumping off their tour buses and heading into the pedestrian streets of the city centre.  This area seemed to escape the crowds, tempting bars and restaurants are found on these cobbled streets, in this mainly residential area.  It's also possible to walk alongside the river here, past the Neimenster monastery, and alongside beautifully tended allotments and rose gardens nestled into the side of the gorge itself.

 

Other places worthy of mention down here are both fine for tasty dinners.  The UpDown bar, offering good beers and homemade food, and 'Vins Fins' Wine bar, with specially selected wine by the glass to be enjoyed with platters of meats, cheeses and vegetarian dips.  Something that we did as a local party helped turn the little place into a buzzing Friday night venue, whilst everyone was looked after by the extremely welcoming couple that ran the place.

 

From this older area of the city it's possible to climb to the main town in several ways, the lift back up is always an option, or several narrow roads zig zag there way up.  Alternatively there are also several walking pathways.  One of which follows the course of the gorge - Vallee de la Petrusse, a small waterway flows down the centre, the rest lined with trees and shrubs, making this walk pleasant one away from the hustle and bustle of city life going on 46 metres above.

The view from the top across and into the gorge is impressive and has been described by many guide books as the best terrace in Europe.  Whilst it is lovely, with views across to the railway part of the city and to the bridges spanning the drop below, it's still worth the walk down to see the city from a different perspective.

There are other parts to Luxembourg that will be mentioned in a later blog, but for anyone thinking of a weekend destination Luxembourg city shouldn't disappoint.  It's easy to get there by air or car, but as always the train is always an option to make the journey part of the trip.  The local SNCB train from Brussels connects with the Eurostar and provides a comfortable and affordable trip taking in views of Luxembourg as the train speeds along and increasing the anticipation of the exploring to come.

Anglesey, a lot to offer

The drive to get to Anglesey had taken 5 hours.  Winding our way through the rolling hills and valleys of central Wales.  We had come this way on purpose as we were looking forward to seeing the wild landscape and isolated villages.  Unfortunately it was raining.  Heavily.  Windscreen wipers on as fast as they could go.  Through the small breaks however came a glimpse of those promised views, rough green and rocky outcrops.

Menai Strait

The final bit of our journey followed the road along the north Wales coast and then crossing the Britannia bridge into Anglesey itself.  A few more miles on we arrived in Beaumaris, on the eastern shore on the Menai Strait.  And in a weird film way the rain stopped and the sun came out.

Beaumaris itself is a buzzing little town, boasting several attractions, a Victorian pier, a variety of small boutiques and plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from.  However not being over crowded with tourists it retains its locals feel.  We were staying for two nights and this gave us plenty of opportunity to check out some local sites.  There are some stunning views from the cliff top walk just above the town itself, sweeping views across the strait, to the hills of north Wales and out to sea. 

Beaumaris Castle

It's also well worth checking out Beaumaris castle, run now by Cadw, the Welsh heritage preservation group.  Here you can pretend you are the rampaging invading English or a Welsh lord, defending your land from the impressive ramparts that still remain and are open for exploration.  Much remains of the castle and you can easily spend a couple of hours here, checking out the narrow corridors and towers.

Beaumaris Castle - Cadw

We were staying in the Bulls Head.  A fine example of an historic inn nicely rebranded into a hotel with rooms and great food.  Our room was in the newer part.  Modern facilities, well designed with a view over the busy street below.  The only weird thing being the glass panel between bedroom and bathroom, ensuring the person going to the toilet in the night will wake up the other, a quirky feature.  The pub / restaurant offers 2 excellent eating options.  The loft restaurant, where fine locally sourced ingredients are on offer in some well thought out dishes, or my personal favourite the Brasserie.  A more laid back affair with equally tasty treats on offer.  Not forgetting of course the opportunity to sample some tasty local ales in the small bar out front.

A very welcoming place to stay

Just a little further along the coast is the stunningly located National Trust property of Plas Newydd House and Gardens.  The gardens are beautifully kept with views over to Snowdonia.  Paths wind along the side of the Menai strait, woodland trails lined with rhododendrons offering glimpses to the water below.  The sun was shining and the water glistened and highlighted the house itself.  Helpful guides, as you would expect from National Trust volunteers were keen to show off all the house had to offer, including a spectacular mural by Rex Whistler his largest ever painting.  After checking all this out the teas shop was a welcome distraction.

Plas Newydd

For those people thinking of a weekend destination you could do a lot worse than this welcoming part of the Welsh coast.

Latvia - national parks and hospital beds

It was about a 6 hour bus journey from Tallinn (Estonia) to Riga, capital of Latvia.  As usual on this journey, the bus seemed to leave at the most inconvenient time.  11.40 pm.  Late enough so you have to leave your bag somewhere all day, driving through the night so you miss any interesting scenery on the way, and always arriving at the destination far too early to check into any hostel.  This seemed to be the way with the cheap buses we had taken on our travels.  Still the coach was fairly comfortable and crossing the border hassle free, just one guard making his way up and down the bus stamping people in.  We arrived at 6.30ish, bus station on the edge of town. 

Riga

We were staying a little way out of town, in a suburban area but well connected to the city by trolley bus.  This was the most expensive place we had been on this journey that had started back in Shanghai, China.  It also brought about a different feel.  An old town listed as a world heritage site awaited and allowed plenty of opportunity to explore on foot.  Impressive facades in different colours encircled a large square where buskers were playing what seemed like suitable music on string instruments and cafes and restaurants seemed to invite you to sit down.  We took a short walking tour taking in the highlights, several places of worship, the Swedish gate, and alleys lined with craft stalls.  A very restful place, complete with towers and river.

Riga Square

We decided to leave the city and check out some of the greenery on offer in the form of the national parks.  We settled on the Gauja valley, dubbed by some to be the 'Switzerland' of Latvia.  This wooded valley, was advertised as playing host to a string of medieval castles and the site of many natural caves.  Sounded like the perfect place for some fresh air and exercise.

The journey from Riga to Sigulda was short only 1 hour 15 mins, which passed quickly as most of the time was spent looking down the river valley.  We got off in the heart of the national park, feeling ready for a hike.  First things first however, my companions had read about an Olympic size 16 bend metal bobsled run where for a small fee you can enjoy the thrill of being flung down it.  I waited at the side with the camera.  They assured me it was worth it.  They were the only ones there, and when else would you have the opportunity to do this?

Bobsled Run

From this surreal adventure, things got even stranger when we arrived at the place we had booked to stay.  Back in Riga we had been recommended the 'Krimulda mansion', weird we were told but worth it.  It was advertised as a rehabilitation centre for kids, but looked more like a sanatorium, our room was in a large semi circular summer house next to the beautifully manicured front lawn.  The summer house was split into rooms, each with wooden frames and doors and to complete the illusion were hospital beds.  For a moment we wondered whether this was a good idea, but a hot shower, great views and the promise of a good walk meant we didn't hesitate.  We dumped our bags and headed on out.

The 'hostel'

We spent a good few hours exploring the trails around next to the river and the woods.  We explored the caves and the remains of Krimulda castle, which also included some interesting grounds and statues from famous folk tales.  We had got this high up the valley by taking the cable car, this made the views even more spectacular.  We continued our walk further along the valley this time deciding to leave the cable car and walk.  We found ourselves approaching Turaida castle.  A magnificant red brick castle founded in 1214.  It was starting to get dusk when we arrived, but as well as with the sunset, our arrival coincided with a couple of hundred other people who it seemed had come to see opera at the castle.  We managed to get in, and find a seat at a restaurant within the walls, with a balcony overlooking the action.  We ordered food and beer and settled in.

 

The music filled the valley, music resonating from the walls.  The atmosphere was light, people relaxing with their family and friends, enjoying picnics and wine.  It was a great evening and a truly unexpected one.  The only downside was that it was now dark, we had no torch and we had to walk back up a very steep hill to our 'hostel'.  We stuck close together as the darkness closed in around us, and the silence that fell on the valley was a little scary!  We got back and now tired, this was one hospital bed, we didn't find falling into.

Turaida Castle

Mauritius - Much more than a tropical paradise

I am not one for lying on beaches and doing nothing.  In fact I have been known to drive people mad, with my continuing demands to do something as soon as we have arrived anywhere, something I am sure many of my travelling companions of the past will hastily agree with.  But I had been lucky enough to win this trip to Mauritius, yep really, and I was determined to relax and make the most of it.  Particularly as the prize included a stay in the luxury of the 5* Heritage hotel.

Infinity pools at the Heritage

If I hadn't been drawn by my inability to go anywhere without seeing the local area, it would have been easy to spend all the time relaxing in the hotel.  The infinity pools with their clear blue water reflecting the light and heat of the sun were an easy draw.  That and the fine white sand that made up the beaches of this part of the island.  It was that perfect kind of sand, that you can bury your feet in and watch it escape through the gaps in your toes.  Not that it wasn't ridiculously hot!  The sea in this part of the island is also clear, a good thing for someone who prefers their seaweed on their plate rather than containing who knows what monsters of the deep!  Swimming was like taking a bath, it really wasn't a problem falling off a wakeboard when this is what took the impact.

Perfect beaches

The food in the resort was also pretty spectacular.  I am always wary of inclusive food options, but this one was a real treat.  With several restaurants to choose from, including one right on the beach and one with a claim to a Michelin starred chef in the kitchen.  We ate pretty well, my favourite being the most delicious fresh fish 'Cap salad'.

We did however venture out to take in some sites of the rest of this island paradise.  We drove inland, the roads taking us through the green mountainous areas of this volcanic island and expanses of sugarcane plantations.  It is estimated that 85% of Mauritius's arable land is made up of these plantations, and as we drove past many we could well believe it.  Who knew Mauritius was ranked second in the world for air quality, it certainly felt fresh up here!

Our destination for the day was the capital city of Port Louis, but we arrived there following a detour to the botanical gardens of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam.  Found in the equally amazing named Pamplemousses.  The name itself made the trip, but the gardens were beautiful.  An arboretum for palms and other tropical trees, it's a great place to wander and take in some of Mauritius many indigenous species.  The centre piece is a large pond filled with vast water lilies.

 

From here we continued our drive to Port Louis a city in motion.  The home to a melting pot of nationalities all of whom seemed to have made their mark on this bustling city. 

Waterfront Port Louis

We spend time wandering around the busy streets, checking out the markets, and taking a trip to the water front where signs of new wealth were beginning to spring in the form of offices and financial buildings.  Making our way back to our resort the views were stunning, glimpses of the sea behind lush landscapes and finally a beautiful sunset.  We had discovered this island was much more than its association with the infamous Dodo.

 

Of course then was the time for more relaxing, spa treatments and tasty dinners, after all it would have been rude not to.

 

 

A very British day out - A Bank Holiday Day at the Seaside

We woke up to be greeted by a cloudy day, hardly unexpected on a British Bank holiday weekend in May, no matter what was forecast.  But we had decided on a plan and it was going to be followed.  Off we set on a 3 hour drive to the coast.  Destination -  Weymouth a quintessential example of what the British seaside is all about.  As part of the Jurassic coast, it gets its fame from fossils and beautiful headlands and bays, as well as bucket and spade holidays.  The journey was exactly like those of us born and bred in the UK have come to expect.  One man and his dog and every caravan seemly ever produced, making their way to the sea.  The traffic slowed as the motorway narrowed into single lanes.  Later than we expected we pulled into the car park.  At least this was easy, unusually spaces were plenty, although looking at the foreboding sky this was surely not a surprise.

The Seafront

Coats on, we headed to the promenade.  Here we found families doing their best to look like they were having a good time.  And indeed many of them seemed to be.  Despite the chill in the air people were on the beach, sand castles being built and kites flying. There were several in shorts, the default position of a British person and the coast, no matter what the reality of the weather. 

 

 

Disappointingly all the beach huts were tightly locked up and many of the seafront kiosks also had decided to remain closed.  Those that were open however didn't disappoint, even the hard core traditionalists would have been impressed with the colourful array of buckets, spades, windbreaks and spinners on offer, along with inflatable dinghy's, beach games and all sorts of other money spending opportunities that day trippers couldn't afford to miss.  Polystyrene cups of tea were difficult to get hold of but there are several nice cafes to choose from when it came to warming up and people watching. 

 The beach itself is a wide strip of land that hugs the coastline for several miles and is heavily protected from the power of the sea by rock groynes and seawalls, all of which ensure that Weymouth should keep its beach and therefore its tourists for a while to come.

At the end of the promenade is the newly built observation platform, a raised donut shape that carries you 53 metres into the air for panoramic views over the Jurassic coast.  Opened in 2012 in perfect timing to coincide with Weymouth hosting the 2012 Olympic sailing events, I imagine this would get busy, not today however, the gray skies putting off all but those who must have booked tickets in advance.  We followed the crowds instead and headed for the amusements.  A strange name for games that swallow up money and for limited amounts of fun and small reward, spew out tokens for the lucky winner to exchange for prizes.  Still it was packed, the colourful neon lights and the cacophony of sounds drawing people in, including us to gamble on the two pence drop.  If that's not enough, rides are also on offer, things to spin you around fast and make you lose your stomach or my personnel favourite the magic of the carousel with its beautifully decorated horses and carriages.

 

Weymouth also has an old harbour with both sailing and fishing boats.  It's possible to walk the stone walls and check out the boats and little boutiques, cafes and bars around.  It was full of hustle and bustle as families jostled for good crabbing positions searching for the prime spots along the harbour wall, completing for space with those who were looking for a good spot to eat their fish and chips, freshly caught and cooked at one of the many excellent fish and chip shops around.  The smell of which wafts out of the doors and encourages more people to join the queues coming out of the shops.

 

Suitably windblown and with our fill of sea air it was time to head home.  Did we wish we could stay longer? of course, nothing beats a day out at the seaside no matter what the weather.

 

 

Copenhagen, perfect just for wandering

A few things I remember about Copenhagen, the statue of Hans Christian Andersons 'The Little Mermaid' is pretty small, the famous 'Tivoli Gardens' the 100 year old amusement park has a pretty expensive price tag, and there is nothing better to do on a sunny day than to sit with the locals on the harbour wall with lunch and a cold beer watching the tourists pay extortionate prices for lunch in the harbour side cafes.

I was only in Copenhagen for a few days, and was in need of a rest.  I managed to get a great hostel (The Generator Hostel) right in the centre just a few streets away from the water front.  It proved a great base to explore the city that is totally walkable and had good rooms and a rooftop bar to boot.

The Little Mermaid

I didn't really have any plans, I picked up a map at reception and just walked.  In a few days it was possible to see lots without rushing.  The weather helped, gorgeous sunshine everyday highlighted the colourful buildings of the city and seemed to have brought everyone out onto the streets.  Copenhagen has a lot of waterfront perfect for a stroll, and Nyhavn right by the harbour is the place to hang out.  It's also a good place for getting a boat tour through some of the waterways of this low lying city.  The boat took us passed some of Copenhagen's famous palaces, its new palaces of food and some great residential areas on the waterfront.  The city seemed to relax into its surroundings. 

Nyhavn

It also had good parks just to wander through, with people just lying, reading, picnicking and I guess just enjoying the weather.  Along the waterfront a beach and pool had been established which was packed with people of all ages.  I gave Tivoli a miss, and instead headed for a couple of galleries.  Inside Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, apart from the treasures that abound, it's also possible to head for the roof, where you can take in views of the city below, including the rides of Tivoli.  Downstairs under glass dome architecture a beautiful winter garden exists, a good place to sit and plan what next.  The modern art gallery was also worth a look, more for the building itself than what was inside it, it also had a really good cafe and a great view besides.  Back by the waterfront a new library has been built.  Again worth an investigation.  The inside structure is open, spacious and light, and a good place to sit in the sun with a coffee.

By the habour

After cultural activities checked off, I followed the crowd to Stoget, Copenhagen's largest shopping area, a long pedestrian street packed with a variety of shops, with other cobbled streets like arteries, leading off this towards more individual boutiques, cafes and historic buildings.

Winter Gardens at Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek

Another thing that I was told not to miss was the 'infamous' free town Christiania.  This part of town founded in 1971 by a group of hippies made its reputation around its alternative lifestyle.  It's possible to join the other tourists and wander around this expression of living outside the norm, but I have to say I came away with a sense of disappointment for the community not myself.  The stalls offering hash related paraphernalia, weed t shirts and incense seemed like a sell out rather than progress.  Maybe it's better after the tourists have left.



City View

After a few days in this city, I felt I had done what I set out to do.  I was more relaxed, had taken in some of the highlights this city had to offer and was ready to board the train over the water to Sweden.  Would I recommend Copenhagen, yes, would I go back, yes.  In fact apart from the expensive cost of food and drink, it's difficult to find something I didn't like about this city.  You should go.

 

The worst journey to the best destination? Xinshuangbanna, Yunnan , China

You could argue that this was a bargain, where else can you travel for 20 hours for 198.5 Yuan? (approx £15), or perhaps you could say we ought to have known better.  We had felt pretty smug, we arrived on the off chance at the bus station in Xiaguan, with no tickets only hope and a great plan.  Our luck paid off or so we thought, it just so happened that there were 4  places left of the sleeper bus leaving in just a few hours.  Destination Xishuangbanna, Yunnan province China.  We had read in the guide book good things, and therefore we used that as a decision to go.  After all, the promise of pristine rainforest, Dai villages, and unspoilt countryside was something we really couldn't turn down.

As the bus pulled in we hoped the destination was worth it.  Our excitement of getting a seat turned into incredulity that we were going to travel 20 hours on what appeared to be a shelf!  This was located at the back of the bus, a raised platform not just for the 3 of us but a snug fit for the 5 that apparently had tickets for this 'exclusive' space.  Luckily we managed to get our bags tied on, literally bolted in as the door was closed.  This at least meant space to lie down, our only option as sitting upright was impossible due to lack of head room and even adopting a contorted position was fruitless as the bus continued over miles and miles of unpaved road.  Every bump of the head the result of pot holes of the road.  The lights were turned off, after all it was night time, so reading was out of the question, instead time was spent listening to the throat clearing and spitting of our fellow passengers who seemed to have less trouble sleeping. 

Bus of challenges

Sleep came and went, heavy braking as the bus swerved to avoid traffic, resulted in a javelin effect of bodies down the bus that woke us all.  Occasionally the bus would pull over for the driver to take a break and a chance for passengers to extract themselves for a few precious minutes.  As it started to get light the bus turned into a sauna, we were heading to a more tropical area after all, and the air temperature reflected that.  At least now we could see through the small side window.  Outside, small villages appeared in view and endless stretches of forest alongside the road a tantalising view of what was to come.  At 3pm we finally pulled into Jinghong, exiting the bus battered and bruised it was as if someone had turned on the fresh air, the excitement returned.

The next few days were really good.  We managed to get accommodation in wooden bungalows on stilts.  The area had a really relaxed feel to it and was full of little cafes and restaurants to try out.  A totally different atmosphere to the east of China.  We had come here to see the rainforest and that's what we did.  perhaps somewhat foolishly, although it didn't seem like it at the time, we arranged for a mini bus to take us further into the forest area. 

Rainforest

There we were dropped off at a Dai village, no map or guide.  We were told just to follow the track, go left at the temple, cross over a wooden bridge and keep going until we reached the promised waterfall.  We passed wooden houses, a man squatting and smoking whilst watching his buffalo and the world go by.  Other people were at work in small forest clearings, working small agricultural plots.  We saw a great example of irrigation systems using bamboo for water channels.  From here we started climbing up into the forest, through very tall trees with huge root structures, but fairly brown towards the ground and clear of thick vegetation.  Have to climb over fallen logs and branches.  All the time we could hear the noise of the river in the background and the singing of the birds.  Suddenly there was a loud roaring noise and the waterfall came into view.  Two streams pouring over boulders on the way downstream.  Very damp and misty near the banks. 

Waterfalls in the forest

We stayed for a while taking pictures, before it was time to turn round and head back the way we had come.  As we dropped back down into the Dai village, the village women were just sitting in the square on a log with the children.  No one seemed to be rushing, just enjoying the sunshine and each other's company.  Further down the road the men were playing pool, whilst the occasional person zoomed past on a motorbike with a basket full of fresh produce.  No one gave a damn that we were there and continued as usual.  It was great.  This trip was definitely worth it.

Dai village

Would I do that journey again? not anytime soon, but the memories of that journey live strong, if not stronger than the destination itself, and sometimes that's what the best trips are made of.