The first thing you can't help but notice in this small
Guatemalan city is that its surrounded by 3 vast volcanoes, looming like giants
over the town below. The second thing
you notice are the rows of neat coloured houses and other buildings laid out like
a grid pattern, letting cooler air funnel through narrow passages and providing
much needed shade on at least one half of the street in this low rise city.
Buildings of various shades of yellows and
orange glow warm in the sunshine and seem to invite you in. The whole city itself was very inviting. As my first stop in Central America this was
proving to be a good start.
Grabbing a map, I followed the cobbled streets through
an archway with clock and arrived in the main plaza. Here first stop was one of the many coffee
shops for breakfast and to watch the activity in the square. Market traders were setting out their wares
on trestle tables, a colourful mix of bright fabrics, jewellery, flowers, and
various fruits and vegetables. It was a Sunday morning but the place was filling up
fast, many people spilling out of the cathedral and numerous churches scattered
amongst the city.
The city itself was founded in the early 16th century
and is now protected due to its historic value and appears on the UN's world
heritage list. Wandering around its easy
to see why. The city itself was
partially destroyed by a huge earthquake in 1773 and much abandoned by the
local people. This has meant that many
of the original architecture and buildings still stand. Although people re-inhabited the city and
rebuilt some of the key buildings the atmosphere has been maintained. Many of the original churches were not
rebuilt and now these partially destroyed buildings add to the atmosphere and
cry out for exploration.
It's easy to walk around this city, despite a dodgy map
and the intense heat of the day. There
are loads of places to stop, lots of inviting cafes and bars, many with their
own shady courtyards or roof top terraces.
The food was good, simple local dishes, steaks, quesadillas and various
other Mexican type offerings to go along with the local beer. What was also nice was the lack of tourists,
there were some but the place wasn't overrun.
Walking away from the main plaza, the crowds are quickly left behind.
I got a tuk-tuk up to El Cerro de la Cruz, just a few minutes'
drive out and up outside the city itself.
From here there is a breathtaking view of the city spread out below and
a great view of two of the volcanoes that dominate the skyline. Living this close to these dormant volcanoes
although potentially dangerous has given life to the city itself, the
surrounding fertile land supporting the cities inhabitants. Whilst taking in the view one of the
volcanoes gives off a few puffs of smoke and reminds me of how close we are in
this living landscape.
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