Hiroshima - a city that's moved on...?

We had wanted to go to Hiroshima since arriving in Japan 2 months before.  Finally we made it happen, as one of the people we had got to know decided that he and his girlfriend would drive us the 5 hours it took to get there.  Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth, we took them up on their kindness and found ourselves arriving at lunch time the following day. 

 

The only thing we really knew about Hiroshima was I guess the same as every school child now knows.  That it was the site of the first use of the atomic bomb in conflict, which had such a devastating impact on the city.  As we drove in we didn't know what to expect but I guess not what appeared before us.  High rise modern buildings, traffic queues and people hurrying about their daily routine, and on the outskirts leafy tree lined avenues.  Hardly surprising as it was a long time after its infamous past. 

Down town, and city like many others

The city itself was hard to like.  However certain bits really stood out, and have stayed with me for a long time.  Not least the delicious food that was served up.  By this time I had become a fan of 'okonomiyaki' and this cities didn't disappoint.  We filled up on the tasty cabbage based snack, (yes really) in a busy train station restaurant, where we watched our food be created before us, before being served up steaming.  This place was busy, people coming and going  grabbing a seat at the bar counter, consuming and then moving on.  We did the same, we had places on our agenda that had to be seen.

Okonomiyaki - delicious

The first I can still see.  The perfect view of Miyajima island with its famous red Torri shrine that seems to float on the water.  To get to the island we crossed on the car ferry, a smooth 15 minute trip.  It was fairly quiet at this time, maybe because even in October there was a chill in the air.  Off on the Island we had time to take in the view of the shrine itself, it creating an extremely pretty view with mountains in the background.  The water itself was remarkably clear and looked inviting.  Paddling however seemed a bit wrong in this sacred spot so temptation resisted, we looked around the temple and museum instead.   After admiring the traditional roofs and red woodwork of these traditional buildings we headed up the hill to check out the pagoda which was restored in 1533 and shows both examples of Chinese and Japanese influences.  It was well worth the hill for the views back to the mainland alone.

Miyajima

The following day we got up early, caught a bus and walked a while through the streets of downtown Hiroshima, past the castle and towards the second destination and reason for this trip.  In front of us stood Genbaku dome (A- bomb dome), the legacy of the bomb that struck the city on 6th August 1945.  Despite some opposition from city residents this building at the hypocentre of the bomb blast remains standing as a memorial to all the people that were killed.  It looked odd here, out of place, which I guess was the point, a sign of destruction in this now modern metropolis.  We walked further and entered the peace park.  A large green leafy area that now provides a place of contemplation, and remembrance for all who visit.  Located here is the 'eternal flame' which will not be extinguished until the last nuclear bomb on earth is destroyed.  A vain hope but a powerful one.  For all the people who feel that nuclear war is acceptable a visit to the museum on site will change even the strongest of views.  Its well done, being both informative and emotive at the same time, telling stories of individuals lost and sorrow lived through. But even as we left the museum we were stuck with the message of this place, that although remembering the past was clearly important it was the message for the future that stood out.  A message that clearly spoke of concern that events like this might not be a thing of the past but a real worry for the future.

Genbaku dome, a memorial of the past

Leaving Hiroshima on the train we had much to think about, the 2 sites we had visited reflected this cities past whilst at the same time expressed hope for its future.