Iceland- Glaciers, volcanoes and super jeeps

It pulled up outside the hotel at 9am, it was massive dwarfing all the other vehicles in the car park.  The tyres looked like they meant business, a sure sign that today was going to be fun.  We were heading out in our 'super jeep' over the volcano range, along Iceland's highway and down to the south of the island.  The drive didn't start well, it was snowing heavily and views over to the volcano chain along the mid Atlantic Ridge were obscured. However during breaks in the storm, came views of sharp jagged peaks and black volcanic rock, a tease of what was to come.

A few hours later we reached the point where we would turn off the main highway and on to a dirt track, we were to follow this road up along the side of the glacial outwash plain and alongside the edge of Eyjafjallajokull.  Yep this is the volcano that kicked off in 2010 disrupting flights across Europe for at least a week and stranding holiday makers around the globe.

 

The evidence of the eruption was everywhere.  The track uneven with volcanic ash clearly seen in the surroundings.  We stopped to let air out of the tyres to make them more 'grippy' but the super jeep had no problem fording the melt water streams that crossed the roads and steep banks leading into and out of each one.  As we rounded to the north end of the volcano we crossed over a ridge into an area where a glacial lagoon used to be, until the volcano erupting beneath the glacier with such force tore into the mountain side, creating a brand new fracture in the mountain and releasing hundreds of tonnes of melted ice and ash that raced down the valley, taking out the lip of the lagoon and pouring a torrent of water into the valley below, where we had just driven though.  It was an awesome sight.

We drove up the mountain side until we were very close to this new fracture and could look down on the glacial snout below, bluey ice exposed beneath snow.  Here the power of the planet was obvious and a privilege to see, it was why we had come to Iceland in the first place and left us in awe of what was going on beneath our feet.

 

Making our way back down the side of the volcano and back out to the road other treats were in store.  We raced along a black sand beach, the stormy winds blowing off the Atlantic Ocean and onto shore, whipping up huge waves and sending them crashing onto the beach.

Next we took in two of Iceland's best waterfalls.  It's possible to climb up the steep metal stairs sunk into the hill on the side of Skogafoss and look over the top of the waterfall and views out to the coast beyond.  Approaching the waterfall you're met with a wall of water flowing like a curtain over the edge and into a pool below, sending up clouds of spray and soaking all those who get close enough.  The second waterfall Seljalandsfoss although much smaller, is fed by the glacier above and falls into a deep pool below.  Apparently it's possible to walk behind this fall, but not today as the path was iced over and slippery and the freezing water was not something we wanted to land in.  Another time maybe.

Skogafoss waterfall

As we drove back to Reykjavik we thawed out in the jeep, this day had been awesome and provides a clear reason why you should go to Iceland, the power of the planet beneath out feet.

 

 

 

 

 

Across Canada by Train - its all about the journey

I love train travel.  I always have.  On my journeys I always get more excited than most if I here there is potential to take a train journey.  Particularly the ones where overnight travel is required.  There's something special about going to sleep to the noise of the train whirling along the tracks and then waking up to the same soothing noise.  That's not to say all my journeys have been great, but you're always sure of an adventure and to see some things that most people don't see when you step through the door into the carriage.  The journey across Canada was no different.  I had been to Canada before and this time persuaded my travelling companions that in order to see as much as possible whilst we were here, there was no alternative but to take the train. 

Train station - a place of exciting possibilities 

Our journey started in Winnipeg, a strange kind of place.  A friendly enough city, but flat, very flat and located in the middle of Canada, just 20km from the longitudinal centre.  After a few days here we were going west all the way to Prince Rupert on the Pacific coast.  It was to be a journey in stages.  We were going to hop on and off the train stopping at various points from Jasper to Prince George.  We had chosen to go with VIA Rail, rejecting the trains meant for tourists and instead taking the everyday train.  This meant we could go on whichever sections of the journey we wanted and save a considerable amount of money. 

Viewing the never ending prairies

The first journey was long we got on the train midday-ish in Winnipeg and settled into our reclining seats.  Large and comfy and facing each other, this would do nicely.  A far cry from the long distance trains I had been used to.  As the train moved along, we couldn't help be surprised by the view out of the window.  I had expected more, instead we were confronted with mile after mile of flat prairie country.  As we passed through Saskatchewan it continued the plains only dotted with farms and grain elevators.  As we settled down to get some sleep the endless prairies continued.  We woke at 6ish.  Outside the windows more of the same. 

 

The trains we travelled on all had a viewing carriage available to all and the glass domed roof was an opportunity to be surrounded by sky and as we approached, mountains.  As we travelled further west the view became more interesting.  The train moved through landscapes of lakes, bridges crossing clear blue rivers, lakes by the side of the track and even glaciers high in the Rockies.  Snow capped peaks brought people into the viewing carriage and the talk of bear sightings more still.  The  bears were proving elusive, a tiny glimpse of one as the train passed quickly by meant everyone now knew what they were missing.  But bears aside interesting villages and small settlements, totem poles and farms had us wondering who lived in these isolated settlement and just what there was to do here.

 

At one point the train stopped, it was going to be a while.  A goods train was coming the other way, there was no choice but to wait for it to pass.  We spent the time buying ice creams from the local stores and laying coins on the track ready to be flatten by the goods train.  We counted the carriages until the train had passed, losing track half way as it went on and on.  Trucks piled high with raw materials and commodities going back east.  Picking up the suitably flattened coins we were back on the train and the journey continued west.  As we approached Prince Rupert we were both a little sad that it was the end of the train trip but also excited for the inside passage trip that was to come.  It was the end of the country, as the Pacific came to meet us and mountains rose up around the town, it seemed a suitable destination to stop, the town both having the feel of not much to do but also a place that exists here because of the train.

 

As we boarded the ferry the next day and turned south, it was a little disappointing that Alaska only 40 miles away was to remain out of reach for now.  But with more trains on offer, a return trip is definitely not out of the question.

 

Grazing in Madrid

By the time we got back home I needed to rest my stomach.  A city break in Madrid had turned into an opportunity to spend a lot of time grazing.  We hadn't planned it liked that.  We had thought we would be busy with museums, art galleries and culture, and in many respects we were.  But wandering around the city of Madrid also meant taking in wonderful smells and tempting sights of delicious treats that seemed to be available in many locations.  It all started on day one.  We arrived late in the evening and having had a long day we decided to try and find something to eat locally. 

 

The guidebook had promised lots of small bars and tapas in all locations.  However this did not seem to be the case in the area we were staying.  Not wanting to walk far we tried one restaurant that was full even at 10 o'clock at night.  Undeterred we wandered further into a housing estate and found a small bar open.  It wasn't a particularly appealing looking place, Formica tables and high stools at the bar.  However we spied cold beer on tap and delicious looking Iberian ham on the counter and were drawn in.  We tried to order some food.  Tricky without any Spanish.  In the end the waiter just brought us stuff.  And every time we ordered more beer he brought more food.  A good system.  We feasted on various morsels and enjoyed every minute of time in this locals bar.

 

Another destination of choice for further grazing was the Mercado de San Miguel located in the city centre.  This old market has been renovated and now provides countless counter bars where individual taps are prepared.  Seating is limited but not the food and drink.  It's difficult to decide where to start but having arranged to meet back in 10 minutes off we went.  Fish, meats, cheeses and breads, paella and foie gras all on offer for between 1 and 5 Euros.  Piling plates high we met at one of the bars.  A huge piece of wood, smooth and worn, either with age or the number of elbows on it.  Behind it bottles of all sizes stacked up ready for the demand.  Rioja in large glassed flowed and as the place became busier the noise and hustle and bustle grew as the place filled up with both tourists and locals alike.

Rioja Madrid style

Whilst on the theme, other food destinations of choice included the Mercado de San Anton where fresh fruit, vegetables and fish were all displayed in a colourful and eye catching way, and the Iberian ham marquee that just happened to be in the Plaza Mayor while we were there.  Who knew Madrid has the second largest fish market in the world after Tokyo?

Madrid provided many treats and not just of the edible kind, the vast museums of treasures, huge parks and cobblestone streets all are well worth the visit and might feature another time.  But for now the chocolate con churros stand out.  We had resisted for 4 days but on our final night in the city we gave it a go.  Rude not too.  The famous destination of local choice was Chocolatria de san Gines where we ordered 2 portions of these donuts with chocolate sauce.  It proved hard work.  The initial effort soon petered out and defeat was upon us, this trip had taken its toll on our stomachs.  If only we had come here earlier in the week!!

 

 

 

Hiroshima - a city that's moved on...?

We had wanted to go to Hiroshima since arriving in Japan 2 months before.  Finally we made it happen, as one of the people we had got to know decided that he and his girlfriend would drive us the 5 hours it took to get there.  Never one to look a gift horse in the mouth, we took them up on their kindness and found ourselves arriving at lunch time the following day. 

 

The only thing we really knew about Hiroshima was I guess the same as every school child now knows.  That it was the site of the first use of the atomic bomb in conflict, which had such a devastating impact on the city.  As we drove in we didn't know what to expect but I guess not what appeared before us.  High rise modern buildings, traffic queues and people hurrying about their daily routine, and on the outskirts leafy tree lined avenues.  Hardly surprising as it was a long time after its infamous past. 

Down town, and city like many others

The city itself was hard to like.  However certain bits really stood out, and have stayed with me for a long time.  Not least the delicious food that was served up.  By this time I had become a fan of 'okonomiyaki' and this cities didn't disappoint.  We filled up on the tasty cabbage based snack, (yes really) in a busy train station restaurant, where we watched our food be created before us, before being served up steaming.  This place was busy, people coming and going  grabbing a seat at the bar counter, consuming and then moving on.  We did the same, we had places on our agenda that had to be seen.

Okonomiyaki - delicious

The first I can still see.  The perfect view of Miyajima island with its famous red Torri shrine that seems to float on the water.  To get to the island we crossed on the car ferry, a smooth 15 minute trip.  It was fairly quiet at this time, maybe because even in October there was a chill in the air.  Off on the Island we had time to take in the view of the shrine itself, it creating an extremely pretty view with mountains in the background.  The water itself was remarkably clear and looked inviting.  Paddling however seemed a bit wrong in this sacred spot so temptation resisted, we looked around the temple and museum instead.   After admiring the traditional roofs and red woodwork of these traditional buildings we headed up the hill to check out the pagoda which was restored in 1533 and shows both examples of Chinese and Japanese influences.  It was well worth the hill for the views back to the mainland alone.

Miyajima

The following day we got up early, caught a bus and walked a while through the streets of downtown Hiroshima, past the castle and towards the second destination and reason for this trip.  In front of us stood Genbaku dome (A- bomb dome), the legacy of the bomb that struck the city on 6th August 1945.  Despite some opposition from city residents this building at the hypocentre of the bomb blast remains standing as a memorial to all the people that were killed.  It looked odd here, out of place, which I guess was the point, a sign of destruction in this now modern metropolis.  We walked further and entered the peace park.  A large green leafy area that now provides a place of contemplation, and remembrance for all who visit.  Located here is the 'eternal flame' which will not be extinguished until the last nuclear bomb on earth is destroyed.  A vain hope but a powerful one.  For all the people who feel that nuclear war is acceptable a visit to the museum on site will change even the strongest of views.  Its well done, being both informative and emotive at the same time, telling stories of individuals lost and sorrow lived through. But even as we left the museum we were stuck with the message of this place, that although remembering the past was clearly important it was the message for the future that stood out.  A message that clearly spoke of concern that events like this might not be a thing of the past but a real worry for the future.

Genbaku dome, a memorial of the past

Leaving Hiroshima on the train we had much to think about, the 2 sites we had visited reflected this cities past whilst at the same time expressed hope for its future.