It was my first visit to this part of
Africa. Gambia was the destination and a
truck tour around the coastal area and capital Banjul as well as a few sights
further up river were on the cards.
Destination fishing village.
Baskets all around over flowing, rack upon rack of fish laid out to be
smoked. The air filled with the scent of
burning charcoals and dried fish. It was
a heady mix of flavours and in some parts the air so thick it was difficult to
see.
We walked though and onto the beach
where boats were still coming in and landing their catch. Colourful wooden vessels over crowed with both
men and catch been off loaded into large baskets on the beach, which then women
in long colourful dresses and head dresses carried up to the smokers or sold on
immediately to traders and families on the beach.
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Back on the truck and another stop Tumani Tenda eco
tourist camp and village. This community
has set its self up along eco principles and has been an active project for
over 30 years. The chief welcomes you to
his village in return for some words in the local dialect and some nuts. He also seemed to be thoroughly enjoying tricking
his guests by rearranging his pre arrange questions into a different
order. A joke that seemed to have some
members of the village in hysterics, if not the poor unsuspecting foreigner who was just doing their best. It
was a good opportunity to see life in the extended family communities of this Jolla
village.
Neat rows of farm produce, the bakery, wells to draw water and of course the opportunity to taste some of the local cuisine cooked by the women of the village, are all on offer. The location is thought provoking, a peaceful lake setting with some forest surrounding. The trip worth it, although I couldn't help wondering about the rapid rates of deforestation in this sustainable area, and the locals who turned up to dance seemed to lack as much enthusiasm for it as I did for watching this tourist spectacle, the real meaning lost in this tourist charade.
Dinner at the beach suffered ironically from lack
of fish anywhere on the menus that lined the seafront. Still all places offered ridiculously loud
music and more of that 'traditional' Gambian dancing. I kept my head down and tried to avoid the inevitable. First few days in this destination done. Many pleasant surprises so far, some ideas
confirmed, but more than a few questions still to be answered by this, the
smallest nation in Africa.
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