Malaysian Borneo - Its all about the animals

It was a surprise visit organised by the company I was working for at the time.  And as I stood in the middle of the Sepilok forest reserve I felt privileged to be there, orang-utans were swinging through the trees making their way into a slight clearing in the forest where lunch was waiting.  These orang-utans were the lucky ones, after a poor start to their lives, these orphans had been brought to this sanctuary to be rehabilitated.  Care is provided for those that need it, medical help given if necessary, but also important is the life skills these creatures receive as they learn to look after and feed themselves.

The gathering crowd

 

The orang-utans that came swinging in to land on the feeding platforms were those that hadn't quite decided it was time for them to leave yet, they are offered the security of a good lunch if they want it, before they disappear off into the forest reserve.  Sometimes seen regularly sometimes not seen for days. 

Checking us out

We had followed a guide and the board walk to get to the place where a viewing platform allowed us free view of the orang-utans having fun.  They were eating and swinging on the ropes that had been strung up between the trees.  They particularly seemed to enjoy hanging holding on with a mixture of 2 or 4 grips.  A lot of bananas were consumed in the time we spent there.  It was quiet in the forest apart from the noise of birds and of the breeze in the trees, a perfectly great spot to watch these creatures at work.

What a feast!

The second of the wildlife adventures experienced on that trip was accessed by boat.  The Turtle Island of Borneo is located in the Sulu sea, just off the north coast of Borneo.  We didn't know what to expect but as our small boat pulled off the jetty and made its way towards the small island in front of us the excitement grew.  We were only going to be there for one night and the afternoon was spent exploring the accommodation area of the island and waiting for nightfall.  For it was then that we would appreciate why we had come here. 

Getting the boat from the mainland

The island is one of the worlds' most important conservation programmes in order to ensure the survival of the sea turtle.  Turtles come upon the beaches of this island to lay their eggs.  And that night we were lucky enough to see, with the help of our guide some turtles settling in for some egg laying.  It took a while, but it was amazing watching in the darkness, the faint light from the moon highlighting areas of the beach.  What a privilege.  The eggs of the turtles are later uncovered and collected by the rangers that work on the island.  They are kept in a hatchery for up to 60 days, this protects the eggs from hunters and natural predators. After the turtles hatch they are then released back into the sea.  They were very cute, and I have to say very many.  The turtles here lay eggs all year round, so you are pretty much guaranteed to see some on a visit to this special island.

Turtle Island

So Malaysian Borneo, a place with much to offer, covered here is only 2 of the many highlights.  But there is a worry.  The growth in the demand for palm oil combined with the poverty of many people in this area, is resulting in large scale deforestation of some of the most unique environments on the planet.  I just hope other solutions to this large scale destruction are found before it's too late for the orang-utans, and before we come to realise just what we have lost.

 

 

 

 

Essaouira, Morocco - riads, fish and goats

Definitely a place well worth visiting in Morocco in the ancient port town of Essaouira.  Ignore the modern hotels springing up along the sea front further out of town where the beaches are and instead head down to the port itself.  Bright colourful fishing boats with vivid blues, yellows and reds are lined up unloading today's catch.  This is where all the action is in this town, as people hustle to the sea front to watch the boats off load.  Fish is rapidly sent off to market and no one really seemed to mind me standing around taking pictures.  There is a real atmosphere about the place as a whole.  Much smaller than Marrakesh but with a similar level of energy at certain times of day.

Fishing Boats in port

Leaving the port area we wondered around the back streets of this town.  Cobbled alleyways leading to dead ends and other dark passage ways before opening up into large streets.  Merchants peddled their wares from shop fronts and stalls that had sprung up along the sides of the roads.  Some sold every day hardware and food stuffs and many beautifully dressed Berber ladies were going about their daily shop, choosing fresh fruit and vegetables with deep consideration.  Others sold leather goods and fine silk scarves, bright colours and patterns inviting you to buy more than you need.  In the medina crowds bustled particularly in the evening and late afternoon, when temperatures fell to a more manageable and less uncomfortable level, and seemed to bring out whole families to enjoy just wandering around. 

 

The front of the town is protected by sea walls and ancient defences, where canons still line the barricade.  A good walk was had along these taking in the sweeping views out to sea.  Even if the wind was a bit wild it made great waves crashing onto the rocks that lined the base of the defences.

The historic riad we were staying in was larger than others we had seen, and had, so the story told been a destination of Jimi Hendrix at one point.  A courtyard in the centre was complete with intricately carved designs and colourful tiles, as well as a fountain that continuously trickled.  The rooms themselves more unusual, with solid stone bath and terracotta colouring.  Views from the roof terrace were of the other rooftops of the town, all whitewashed to reflect the heat.  And if we strained we could see more of the hustle on the streets below, where the smells of meat on a stick floated up to tempt us, and made it easy to choose our destination for dinner.

Goats and Argan trees

 

Worth mentioning on the journey here by, who can be only described as slowest driver in the world, was the strange sight of goats up trees.  These goats had a taste for the fruit of the Argan tree, helpfully giving the local Berber people a hand by climbing the tree, eating the fruit and dropping the Argan seeds to the ground, where they can be collected to make all sorts of oil based products. 

 

Essaouira is definitely a place where it is easy to stay. 

 

 

Georgia - Mother Georgia and Stalin

Tbilisi capital of Georgia.  A city we were keen to get to and spend some time looking around.  The guidebook promised much, interesting museums, theatres and winding lanes in the old town just waiting to be explored.  Arriving at night was interesting.  It was easy to find somewhere to stay, exiting the tube and checking into one of the many hotels on offer opposite the station.  Bags dropped it was a short walk down hill where a brightly lit vista awaited us.  A new cable car spans across the city, crossing over the river that spits the city in two and rises up to the Nariqala fortress overlooking the city.  Even late at night the park by the river was full of people.  Families enjoying the fountains dancing in time with the music, and the wares the sellers offered, iced coffee, candy floss and a variety of items that could be launched in the air and if you're not careful never seen again.  From the park a new bridge crossed the river, and sparkled in twinkling lights in a manner that seemed at odds with the rest of the old city that we explored the following day.

Cable car over Tbilisi

The city was smallish, mostly walkable, although the tube was easy to use.  However clearly August was not the best time to visit as those museum and theatres that sounded so promising were mostly shut for holidays or being refurbished.  The puppet show at the famous Rustaveli theatre was also a no go, so instead time was spent just wandering.  There was a certain buzz about the city, it had a youthful vibe, with expensive new bars and restaurants spring up in the tourist trap part of town.  These were full of locals not tourists. 

Are they?

Other highlights of this city included the obligatory large statue as found in all ex soviet states, this time 'mother Georgia'.  This 20 metre high aluminium women is easily reached by cable car, and from her feet are good views of the city beneath.  A different monument of sorts is the huge Tsminda Sameba Cathedral that was only consecrated in 2004.  Well worth a look, in a period that see Christianity on the decline in the UK, it's interesting to see the popularity of this post soviet religious revival taking place in Georgia. 

Tsminda Sameba Cathedral

With activities on the verge of exhaustion in Tbilisi itself, a trip to Gori was decided upon.  This town small and relatively poor by Georgian standards, has one claim to fame, and that was Stalin was born here.  You can visit his house, and the train he used to travel whilst ruler of the largest country on earth.  It's interesting.  There is also a very sizeable museum, dedicated to Stalin's rise to power and some of the key members of the communist party.  There were few visitors but our guide was very informative and explained the museum was a museum in itself, explaining the power of the USSR and its propaganda steam roller, whilst ignoring some of the less 'favourable' parts of history.  Am not sure how true this was, but certainly the museum looks exactly how you would have imagined it during Soviet occupation, even if Stalin himself died before it was opened.  Just how long it remains open for remains to be seen.

Stalin - Travelling in style

Also in this town are the remains of a fortress.  This is nothing special in itself, but at the foot of the hill on which its built are some strangely eerie looking metal warriors each with bits missing.  These were built as a memorial to those lost in the 2008 war over South Ossetia, when Russia bombed Gori.

Restless warriors

After all this history it was time for a break.  Sitting in the abandoned square with only the surrounding architecture evidence of its former glory, we decided that this place was weird.  That's not to say we didn't like it, just it felt a bit sad, its glory days over, and that's 'glory' in the strange sense of the word.  We decided it was time to head back to Tbilisi and have another go on the cable car.

 

Mother Georgia

 

 

 

 

 

The Gambia, smallest nation in mainland Africa

It was my first visit to this part of Africa.  Gambia was the destination and a truck tour around the coastal area and capital Banjul as well as a few sights further up river were on the cards.  Destination fishing village.  Baskets all around over flowing, rack upon rack of fish laid out to be smoked.  The air filled with the scent of burning charcoals and dried fish.  It was a heady mix of flavours and in some parts the air so thick it was difficult to see.

 

 

 

We walked though and onto the beach where boats were still coming in and landing their catch.  Colourful wooden vessels over crowed with both men and catch been off loaded into large baskets on the beach, which then women in long colourful dresses and head dresses carried up to the smokers or sold on immediately to traders and families on the beach.

 

Back on the truck and another stop Tumani Tenda eco tourist camp and village.  This community has set its self up along eco principles and has been an active project for over 30 years.  The chief welcomes you to his village in return for some words in the local dialect and some nuts.  He also seemed to be thoroughly enjoying tricking his guests by rearranging his pre arrange questions into a different order.  A joke that seemed to have some members of the village in hysterics, if not the poor unsuspecting foreigner who was just doing their best.  It was a good opportunity to see life in the extended family communities of this Jolla village. 

Neat rows of farm produce, the bakery, wells to draw water and of course the opportunity to taste some of the local cuisine cooked by the women of the village, are all on offer.  The location is thought provoking, a peaceful lake setting with some forest surrounding.  The trip worth it, although I couldn't help wondering about the rapid rates of deforestation in this sustainable area, and the locals who turned up to dance seemed to lack as much enthusiasm for it as I did for watching this tourist spectacle, the real meaning lost in this tourist charade.

Dinner at the beach suffered ironically from lack of fish anywhere on the menus that lined the seafront.  Still all places offered ridiculously loud music and more of that 'traditional' Gambian dancing.  I kept my head down and tried to avoid the inevitable.  First few days in this destination done.  Many pleasant surprises so far, some ideas confirmed, but more than a few questions still to be answered by this, the smallest nation in Africa.