Luxembourg, just what's needed in a city

We discovered the lift in the cliff by accident, initially it looked like a lift down into a car park, but we thought we would give it a go.  We had seen a very tempting bar, with terrace alongside the river from the top of the gorge and were wondering how to get to it.  The aforementioned lift brought us out just opposite, very convenient we thought, as we settled in for a local beer in the sunshine at 'Scotts bar'.

This part of Luxembourg is called the 'Grund' and it's easy to miss if you just follow the tourists, most of whom seem content jumping off their tour buses and heading into the pedestrian streets of the city centre.  This area seemed to escape the crowds, tempting bars and restaurants are found on these cobbled streets, in this mainly residential area.  It's also possible to walk alongside the river here, past the Neimenster monastery, and alongside beautifully tended allotments and rose gardens nestled into the side of the gorge itself.

 

Other places worthy of mention down here are both fine for tasty dinners.  The UpDown bar, offering good beers and homemade food, and 'Vins Fins' Wine bar, with specially selected wine by the glass to be enjoyed with platters of meats, cheeses and vegetarian dips.  Something that we did as a local party helped turn the little place into a buzzing Friday night venue, whilst everyone was looked after by the extremely welcoming couple that ran the place.

 

From this older area of the city it's possible to climb to the main town in several ways, the lift back up is always an option, or several narrow roads zig zag there way up.  Alternatively there are also several walking pathways.  One of which follows the course of the gorge - Vallee de la Petrusse, a small waterway flows down the centre, the rest lined with trees and shrubs, making this walk pleasant one away from the hustle and bustle of city life going on 46 metres above.

The view from the top across and into the gorge is impressive and has been described by many guide books as the best terrace in Europe.  Whilst it is lovely, with views across to the railway part of the city and to the bridges spanning the drop below, it's still worth the walk down to see the city from a different perspective.

There are other parts to Luxembourg that will be mentioned in a later blog, but for anyone thinking of a weekend destination Luxembourg city shouldn't disappoint.  It's easy to get there by air or car, but as always the train is always an option to make the journey part of the trip.  The local SNCB train from Brussels connects with the Eurostar and provides a comfortable and affordable trip taking in views of Luxembourg as the train speeds along and increasing the anticipation of the exploring to come.

Anglesey, a lot to offer

The drive to get to Anglesey had taken 5 hours.  Winding our way through the rolling hills and valleys of central Wales.  We had come this way on purpose as we were looking forward to seeing the wild landscape and isolated villages.  Unfortunately it was raining.  Heavily.  Windscreen wipers on as fast as they could go.  Through the small breaks however came a glimpse of those promised views, rough green and rocky outcrops.

Menai Strait

The final bit of our journey followed the road along the north Wales coast and then crossing the Britannia bridge into Anglesey itself.  A few more miles on we arrived in Beaumaris, on the eastern shore on the Menai Strait.  And in a weird film way the rain stopped and the sun came out.

Beaumaris itself is a buzzing little town, boasting several attractions, a Victorian pier, a variety of small boutiques and plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from.  However not being over crowded with tourists it retains its locals feel.  We were staying for two nights and this gave us plenty of opportunity to check out some local sites.  There are some stunning views from the cliff top walk just above the town itself, sweeping views across the strait, to the hills of north Wales and out to sea. 

Beaumaris Castle

It's also well worth checking out Beaumaris castle, run now by Cadw, the Welsh heritage preservation group.  Here you can pretend you are the rampaging invading English or a Welsh lord, defending your land from the impressive ramparts that still remain and are open for exploration.  Much remains of the castle and you can easily spend a couple of hours here, checking out the narrow corridors and towers.

Beaumaris Castle - Cadw

We were staying in the Bulls Head.  A fine example of an historic inn nicely rebranded into a hotel with rooms and great food.  Our room was in the newer part.  Modern facilities, well designed with a view over the busy street below.  The only weird thing being the glass panel between bedroom and bathroom, ensuring the person going to the toilet in the night will wake up the other, a quirky feature.  The pub / restaurant offers 2 excellent eating options.  The loft restaurant, where fine locally sourced ingredients are on offer in some well thought out dishes, or my personal favourite the Brasserie.  A more laid back affair with equally tasty treats on offer.  Not forgetting of course the opportunity to sample some tasty local ales in the small bar out front.

A very welcoming place to stay

Just a little further along the coast is the stunningly located National Trust property of Plas Newydd House and Gardens.  The gardens are beautifully kept with views over to Snowdonia.  Paths wind along the side of the Menai strait, woodland trails lined with rhododendrons offering glimpses to the water below.  The sun was shining and the water glistened and highlighted the house itself.  Helpful guides, as you would expect from National Trust volunteers were keen to show off all the house had to offer, including a spectacular mural by Rex Whistler his largest ever painting.  After checking all this out the teas shop was a welcome distraction.

Plas Newydd

For those people thinking of a weekend destination you could do a lot worse than this welcoming part of the Welsh coast.

Latvia - national parks and hospital beds

It was about a 6 hour bus journey from Tallinn (Estonia) to Riga, capital of Latvia.  As usual on this journey, the bus seemed to leave at the most inconvenient time.  11.40 pm.  Late enough so you have to leave your bag somewhere all day, driving through the night so you miss any interesting scenery on the way, and always arriving at the destination far too early to check into any hostel.  This seemed to be the way with the cheap buses we had taken on our travels.  Still the coach was fairly comfortable and crossing the border hassle free, just one guard making his way up and down the bus stamping people in.  We arrived at 6.30ish, bus station on the edge of town. 

Riga

We were staying a little way out of town, in a suburban area but well connected to the city by trolley bus.  This was the most expensive place we had been on this journey that had started back in Shanghai, China.  It also brought about a different feel.  An old town listed as a world heritage site awaited and allowed plenty of opportunity to explore on foot.  Impressive facades in different colours encircled a large square where buskers were playing what seemed like suitable music on string instruments and cafes and restaurants seemed to invite you to sit down.  We took a short walking tour taking in the highlights, several places of worship, the Swedish gate, and alleys lined with craft stalls.  A very restful place, complete with towers and river.

Riga Square

We decided to leave the city and check out some of the greenery on offer in the form of the national parks.  We settled on the Gauja valley, dubbed by some to be the 'Switzerland' of Latvia.  This wooded valley, was advertised as playing host to a string of medieval castles and the site of many natural caves.  Sounded like the perfect place for some fresh air and exercise.

The journey from Riga to Sigulda was short only 1 hour 15 mins, which passed quickly as most of the time was spent looking down the river valley.  We got off in the heart of the national park, feeling ready for a hike.  First things first however, my companions had read about an Olympic size 16 bend metal bobsled run where for a small fee you can enjoy the thrill of being flung down it.  I waited at the side with the camera.  They assured me it was worth it.  They were the only ones there, and when else would you have the opportunity to do this?

Bobsled Run

From this surreal adventure, things got even stranger when we arrived at the place we had booked to stay.  Back in Riga we had been recommended the 'Krimulda mansion', weird we were told but worth it.  It was advertised as a rehabilitation centre for kids, but looked more like a sanatorium, our room was in a large semi circular summer house next to the beautifully manicured front lawn.  The summer house was split into rooms, each with wooden frames and doors and to complete the illusion were hospital beds.  For a moment we wondered whether this was a good idea, but a hot shower, great views and the promise of a good walk meant we didn't hesitate.  We dumped our bags and headed on out.

The 'hostel'

We spent a good few hours exploring the trails around next to the river and the woods.  We explored the caves and the remains of Krimulda castle, which also included some interesting grounds and statues from famous folk tales.  We had got this high up the valley by taking the cable car, this made the views even more spectacular.  We continued our walk further along the valley this time deciding to leave the cable car and walk.  We found ourselves approaching Turaida castle.  A magnificant red brick castle founded in 1214.  It was starting to get dusk when we arrived, but as well as with the sunset, our arrival coincided with a couple of hundred other people who it seemed had come to see opera at the castle.  We managed to get in, and find a seat at a restaurant within the walls, with a balcony overlooking the action.  We ordered food and beer and settled in.

 

The music filled the valley, music resonating from the walls.  The atmosphere was light, people relaxing with their family and friends, enjoying picnics and wine.  It was a great evening and a truly unexpected one.  The only downside was that it was now dark, we had no torch and we had to walk back up a very steep hill to our 'hostel'.  We stuck close together as the darkness closed in around us, and the silence that fell on the valley was a little scary!  We got back and now tired, this was one hospital bed, we didn't find falling into.

Turaida Castle

Mauritius - Much more than a tropical paradise

I am not one for lying on beaches and doing nothing.  In fact I have been known to drive people mad, with my continuing demands to do something as soon as we have arrived anywhere, something I am sure many of my travelling companions of the past will hastily agree with.  But I had been lucky enough to win this trip to Mauritius, yep really, and I was determined to relax and make the most of it.  Particularly as the prize included a stay in the luxury of the 5* Heritage hotel.

Infinity pools at the Heritage

If I hadn't been drawn by my inability to go anywhere without seeing the local area, it would have been easy to spend all the time relaxing in the hotel.  The infinity pools with their clear blue water reflecting the light and heat of the sun were an easy draw.  That and the fine white sand that made up the beaches of this part of the island.  It was that perfect kind of sand, that you can bury your feet in and watch it escape through the gaps in your toes.  Not that it wasn't ridiculously hot!  The sea in this part of the island is also clear, a good thing for someone who prefers their seaweed on their plate rather than containing who knows what monsters of the deep!  Swimming was like taking a bath, it really wasn't a problem falling off a wakeboard when this is what took the impact.

Perfect beaches

The food in the resort was also pretty spectacular.  I am always wary of inclusive food options, but this one was a real treat.  With several restaurants to choose from, including one right on the beach and one with a claim to a Michelin starred chef in the kitchen.  We ate pretty well, my favourite being the most delicious fresh fish 'Cap salad'.

We did however venture out to take in some sites of the rest of this island paradise.  We drove inland, the roads taking us through the green mountainous areas of this volcanic island and expanses of sugarcane plantations.  It is estimated that 85% of Mauritius's arable land is made up of these plantations, and as we drove past many we could well believe it.  Who knew Mauritius was ranked second in the world for air quality, it certainly felt fresh up here!

Our destination for the day was the capital city of Port Louis, but we arrived there following a detour to the botanical gardens of Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam.  Found in the equally amazing named Pamplemousses.  The name itself made the trip, but the gardens were beautiful.  An arboretum for palms and other tropical trees, it's a great place to wander and take in some of Mauritius many indigenous species.  The centre piece is a large pond filled with vast water lilies.

 

From here we continued our drive to Port Louis a city in motion.  The home to a melting pot of nationalities all of whom seemed to have made their mark on this bustling city. 

Waterfront Port Louis

We spend time wandering around the busy streets, checking out the markets, and taking a trip to the water front where signs of new wealth were beginning to spring in the form of offices and financial buildings.  Making our way back to our resort the views were stunning, glimpses of the sea behind lush landscapes and finally a beautiful sunset.  We had discovered this island was much more than its association with the infamous Dodo.

 

Of course then was the time for more relaxing, spa treatments and tasty dinners, after all it would have been rude not to.

 

 

A very British day out - A Bank Holiday Day at the Seaside

We woke up to be greeted by a cloudy day, hardly unexpected on a British Bank holiday weekend in May, no matter what was forecast.  But we had decided on a plan and it was going to be followed.  Off we set on a 3 hour drive to the coast.  Destination -  Weymouth a quintessential example of what the British seaside is all about.  As part of the Jurassic coast, it gets its fame from fossils and beautiful headlands and bays, as well as bucket and spade holidays.  The journey was exactly like those of us born and bred in the UK have come to expect.  One man and his dog and every caravan seemly ever produced, making their way to the sea.  The traffic slowed as the motorway narrowed into single lanes.  Later than we expected we pulled into the car park.  At least this was easy, unusually spaces were plenty, although looking at the foreboding sky this was surely not a surprise.

The Seafront

Coats on, we headed to the promenade.  Here we found families doing their best to look like they were having a good time.  And indeed many of them seemed to be.  Despite the chill in the air people were on the beach, sand castles being built and kites flying. There were several in shorts, the default position of a British person and the coast, no matter what the reality of the weather. 

 

 

Disappointingly all the beach huts were tightly locked up and many of the seafront kiosks also had decided to remain closed.  Those that were open however didn't disappoint, even the hard core traditionalists would have been impressed with the colourful array of buckets, spades, windbreaks and spinners on offer, along with inflatable dinghy's, beach games and all sorts of other money spending opportunities that day trippers couldn't afford to miss.  Polystyrene cups of tea were difficult to get hold of but there are several nice cafes to choose from when it came to warming up and people watching. 

 The beach itself is a wide strip of land that hugs the coastline for several miles and is heavily protected from the power of the sea by rock groynes and seawalls, all of which ensure that Weymouth should keep its beach and therefore its tourists for a while to come.

At the end of the promenade is the newly built observation platform, a raised donut shape that carries you 53 metres into the air for panoramic views over the Jurassic coast.  Opened in 2012 in perfect timing to coincide with Weymouth hosting the 2012 Olympic sailing events, I imagine this would get busy, not today however, the gray skies putting off all but those who must have booked tickets in advance.  We followed the crowds instead and headed for the amusements.  A strange name for games that swallow up money and for limited amounts of fun and small reward, spew out tokens for the lucky winner to exchange for prizes.  Still it was packed, the colourful neon lights and the cacophony of sounds drawing people in, including us to gamble on the two pence drop.  If that's not enough, rides are also on offer, things to spin you around fast and make you lose your stomach or my personnel favourite the magic of the carousel with its beautifully decorated horses and carriages.

 

Weymouth also has an old harbour with both sailing and fishing boats.  It's possible to walk the stone walls and check out the boats and little boutiques, cafes and bars around.  It was full of hustle and bustle as families jostled for good crabbing positions searching for the prime spots along the harbour wall, completing for space with those who were looking for a good spot to eat their fish and chips, freshly caught and cooked at one of the many excellent fish and chip shops around.  The smell of which wafts out of the doors and encourages more people to join the queues coming out of the shops.

 

Suitably windblown and with our fill of sea air it was time to head home.  Did we wish we could stay longer? of course, nothing beats a day out at the seaside no matter what the weather.