Exploring the Ionian island of Lefkada

We drove up a steep road through little Greek villages in search of dinner and pulled up outside what looked like some ones house.  We had been told that it had one of the best views over the east coast of Lefkada and I think it may just have.  The place actually turned out to be closed, but with a little persuasion ice cold beers were produced, and we leaned over the balcony and took in the sunset over the picturesque vista below.  We could see the islands and coastal villages and towns that we had spent the week exploring fading out in the distance as the sun disappeared in the evening haze.  We had known it would be lovely here, but the clear blue seas, attractive towns and inviting villages were better than imagined.

It helped that we had some local knowledge and that we had access to a boat.  The trip started well.  We sat in Syvota and watched the boats coming in.  The sea front here is lined with small taveras and bars, and provides a great spot to watch the people that have just picked up their charter yachts.  It was peak season and despite the tranquil atmosphere of the place itself, it seemed no one had told the boats, as they hustled for the best position along side the quay.  No matter that they would be kept awake half the night by the loud and competing music resonating from all the harbour side bars. 

 

We look a speedboat around the coast.  Here were perfect little bays, just right for dropping anchor and getting away from it all.  Here there was no banging music, no light pollution and definitely no tourists.  We pulled up on the west coast of Meganissi island.  A lonely taverna next to a small jetty owned by an island family.  There wasn't a menu, so we just ordered a selection of things we had tried elsewhere and liked.  We ended up with the most delicious piles of chops, salads, and fresh fish, and we pretty much had the place the ourselves. A perfect setting for over indulgence.

 

Meganissi Island itself was very pretty, what you would expect of a picture postcard of a Greek island, cobbled streets in small villages hugging the landscape, and far fewer tourists that Lefkada.

Back on the island of Lefkada, we decided to explore the west coast.  Here are reportedly some of the best beaches in Greece.  Something we couldn't disagree with, when we sat in the warm waters of the Ionian, surrounded by crystal blue seas drinking mojitos and eating gyros, the local freshly cooked kebabs.

 

After we had done with this beach, there were plenty more on offer and we wound our way further north to near the top of the island, where the beaches were less sheltered and were full of kite surfers enjoying the waves.

 

Back on the east coast we picked up a boat with the grand plan to find a spot to BBQ.  We shot off across the bay away from the all inclusive hotels of Nydri and sought out a sheltered bay.  We found a deserted beach, climbed out the boat and waded through the shallow waters.  Here we spent the next few hours preparing our own dinner.  A BBQ on the beach is always a winner no matter where you are, but when you have your own beach there's no need to rush.

 

A holiday on the Greek islands, overcrowded? tacky? third rate?  No way,  this place is perfect, just get away from the crowds and if possible rent a boat, there's no better way to see what the place has to offer than from the deck of a yacht.  

Cambodia and the Mekong - one country two different journeys

One country, two days of all day travel, one worse than expected experience and one never to be forgotten.  The first was a journey from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, we had travelled a lot on our journey in varying forms of transport, taxis, buses, horse, train, bike, but one of my favourite ways of getting anywhere is by boat.  So when we heard that it was possible to get a boat between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, we were quick to part with the $23 it would cost us each to take the trip.  It was February and as it was still technically the wet season then we were reassured there should be enough water in the Mekong to take us. 

Along the Mekong

It was an early start up at 5.45 to make sure the taxi got us there in plenty of time.  However in the way we had become accustomed to, the driver didn't actually leave until 7am.  We arrived at the jetty to find the boat already packed.  But in this part of the world there's always room for some more.  We loaded ourselves and bags, only to discovered the boat was broken.  As people transfer to another boat we work out what's happening, grab our stuff and try again.  We manage to snag a couple of prime spots on the roof.  A western operators idea of a nightmare.  No life jackets, no safety rails, people walking around the edges barely holding on, perfect.  Suntan lotion liberally applied we settled into our much coveted position.  The sun was ridiculously hot but as we sped along we welcomed the breeze the motion of the boat created.

Along the Mekong

The views were magical.  As we floated along this, one of the lifeblood rivers of Asia, all along the banks all sorts of life past before our eyes.  Houses, some on stilts, others floating tied onto the banks.  Small communities of people going about their everyday lives.  Women washing clothes, preparing food, and men fishing waist deep in water.  Children jumping in and out of the river, only pausing their games to wave at us as we went past.  Evidence of subsistence farming all along the way.  At some points the river widened, at other times narrowed.  At one point we almost became grounded as the river levels became very shallow.

 Then after 5 hours we stopped in the middle of the river.  Not sure what was going on, but then small boats started making their way from the river bank to our waiting boat.  Apparently the river was no longer deep enough for our vessel.  Chaos ensued as there was a scramble for bags and a place in the small boats.  Find our places in one and finish off our journey down river, the hum of our motor boat a fading memory as it gets quieter and more peaceful.

 

The second of the journeys was interesting for a different reason.  The time came to leave Cambodia, we were continuing our journey into Thailand and needed a lift to the border.  Our guest house provided tickets for a deluxe mini bus that would make the journey.  It was cheap, very cheap and this should have been a sure sign that we needed to lower our expectations.  The bus that arrived was no deluxe form of travel.  And the sheer number of people waiting was interesting.  The bus was full long before the end of the queue, but for the driver this was not to be a problem.  Bags were piled high in the back of the bus, rucksack upon rucksack.  Those unlucky enough not to pile theres into this small space then faced the prospect of sitting with it on their knee for the duration.  The rest of the people squashed in.  Stools in the aisle and more than 1 to a seat.  I considered myself lucky to have snagged a window seat.  However by the time we had spent 6 hours in this vehicle the smugness I felt initially had been replaced.  As the last available seat it was also over the wheel arch, so knees in the face over every bump on the road and believe me there were many.  The road even though it was the main one was a dusty red track, and as our 'deluxe' vehicle didn't have air con, the only way to breath in the stifling heat and humidity was to open the window.  When we emerged from the bus at the Thailand border I was covered in red dust, clothes, face, hair a nice shade of clay. 

'Deluxe' travel

 

Many buses pulled up at the border including some larger air conditioned tourist buses.  Do I regret not spending a couple more dollars on a ticket, at the time yes, but now? this is what journeys are made of.  The journey never forgotten, which do you think?

House Boats, Mekong journey

 

Jordan - Wadi Rum and Petra, a desert adventure

Today we woke up in the desert in Wadi Rum otherwise known as the valley of the moon.  We had arrived in Aqaba Jordan having taken a ferry from Egypt a few days earlier and had travelled by truck into the desert north away from the city.  It had been a long few days so crashing out on the sand was easy.  Now we were more rested we were up early to travel further into the desert to Wadi Musa.  Here we were going to take jeeps to see some of the marvels of the desert, both natural and with human connection.  Wadi Musa itself claims to have some association with Moses himself and water, hence its name, Valley of Moses.

 

Lawrence of Arabia's well

The jeeps are fun.  Standing up in the open back and holding onto the roof is perfect way to cool down, and despite the fearsome heat and constant sand in the face it is an exhilarating experience.  First stop off point was the well associated with Lawrence of Arabia.  Had to scramble over rocks and uphill to get there but find a stagnant pool, still supplying enough water to support the 40-60 Bedouins who live in the surrounding area.  View from here worth the climb, amazing rock formations stretching across endless desert plateau. 

Wadi Musa

Next stop a natural rock passage with ancient carvings on the wall showing images of family, travellers and animals - including lions and camels, as well as signs of fertility.  A sign people had been travelling across this desert for thousands of years.  The best stop in the desert provides the opportunity to climb on top of a natural rock arch for photos in the desert sun where one of our groups does handstands which are dangerous close to the edge.

Amazing rock formations

Final stop in this wide open space is a massive red sand dune.  And it had to be done.  We scrambled to the top as fast as we could, feet burning as sand filled our hopelessly inadequate shoes.  Then only one way down, and its much steeper than I thought, fast and straight, a race to the bottom, half running, half falling and a lot of fun as well as hot feet by the time we reached the bottom.

Massive Sand dune

From here we journey to Petra for the night before an opportunity to explore tomorrow.  Of course we had to watch the obligatory Indiana Jones or half of it anyway before falling asleep as so tired after today's fun.  Early start to Petra.  We choose to walk through the natural rock passageway, a half mile shaded passage, complete with carving and shrines hidden in the multicoloured rock face.

Entrance to Petra

As we exit the passageway we come face to face with 'the Treasury' the building that so many of us would recognise from the aforementioned film.  It's a very impressive facade, but nothing at all inside.  And so it goes all day.  The site is vast, facades of buildings, remains of houses, temples, and burial tombs can all be explored.  No where it seems is off limits.  Exploration only defined by energy levels and the heat of the day.  We spend all day taking in the sites.  As we climbed up to the place of holy Sacrifice, a cool wind started to blow, a break from the stifling heat in the remains of the city below.  And the view was magnificent, the vast expanse of what was once an affluent city of trade on the silk route spread out below us.  We could almost imaging the camel trains arriving here laden with goods, a relief to be out of the desert we had experienced yesterday.  Climbing back down there was chance to check out the monastery, we declined taking tired looking camels and instead took a  half hour walk from where we started.  Another interesting facade in the rock hidden from view.

The Treasury

As we climbed back down, we began the long walk back to the hotel, through the passage way that had hidden and protected the city for so long.  The last couple of days had been an adventure and there was still so much more to see, Jordan was going to be fun.

Petra from place of high sacrifice

Lijiang and Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan China

After banana and chocolate pancakes and strong coffee we are off on the 3 and a half hour bus journey to Lijiang.  Scenery is great, terraced fields and mountains, plus some scary drops off the sides of the roads.  Conversation on the bus made sure we got a free tour guide to take us to the hostel we were staying in which was up in the old town, a fair trek in the sun from the bus station in the new part of town.  The hotel was set in an old Naxi style building and courtyard, it looked good, even if we had to use a bucket to flush the toilet and despite the sporadic hot water.

Lijiang

After an explore not sure whether or not I liked what I saw.  Lots of beautiful old wooden houses, cobbled streets and water channels following down the streets, all perfect, but this place had obviously cashed in on its popularity so was full of Chinese tour groups and new shops had just moved into old buildings.  A strange juxtaposition of mobile phone shops and traditions crafts.  Walk further away from the main tourist areas and get lost amongst the houses, this was much better, people doing their washing in the waterways in the street and going about their daily chores.  Some small cafes with wooden balconies meant we could sit above the busy pedestrian streets and enjoy some noodles and cold beers whilst missing nothing of the atmosphere from the street below.

Black Dragon Pool

Whilst in Lijiang we decided to check out the Black Dragon Pool park.  This is supposed to be one of the most photographed things in China, so of course had to oblige and add to this.  It was a good view of the lake, pagoda and mountain despite the Chinese lack of planning by thoughtfully adding a pylon in the centre of the frame!  The park was a restful place to be, plenty of chance for some snoozing, and games, whilst Naxi people in their traditional blue and white clothing did the same around us.

We had come this way to western China with a plan in mind.  That was to walk Tiger Leaping Gorge.  We had heard this two day walk was one of the best and it didn't disappoint.  Leaving our main bags in Lijiang, and hoping they would be there on our return, we took a mini bus to near the start of the gorge, stopping on the way to see the first bend of the Yangtze river, and then a dilapidated taxi into the gorge itself.  From the outset the scenery was breathtaking.  Steep sided gorges and blue water bubbling away below.  The traditional story for the gorge tells of a tiger jumping from one side to another, hence the name.  We followed the road / track for a while, until some local peasant farmers point the way up the steep track to the path towards the top of the gorge. 

1St bend in the Yangtze

 

Walking along this narrow path the views in the drop down below got better and better.  We saw no tourists, we had this gorgeous place to ourselves.  In parts the path got very narrow and almost dropped away, in other sections we skirted ledges and waterfalls hugging the rocks as we rounded bends.  Half way along we stopped for the evening.  Even out here in this remotest of parts of China a local family had established a guest house, and what a place it was.  Sat on the side of the gorge, wooden chalet type buildings were to be our cosy accommodation for the evening.  Thick blankets on the beds and charcoal burners under the table to warm our legs.  The view from the toilet was probably the best you will ever get!

The family fed us well, breads, traditional Chinese fare and pancakes and cold beers as well.  A great place to rest our weary legs and sit chatting into the night.  No light pollution, no noise, perfect.

 

The following day after a leisurely breakfast of fresh coffee, juice and baked breads we set off on the path once again.  Several hours later after more stunning scenery we started to climb down into the gorge.  Once we reached the water a small patrol boat arrived and for a small fee the ferry would take us across the river to the other side.  A steep climb back up the opposite side of the gorge followed but the view remained great.  As the trail ended we made the decision to spend one more night in this magical place and checked ourselves into Snow Flowers home stay.  Traditional Naxi food, and hot showers, followed by time spent sitting on the deck outside eating banana toffee and drinking coffee and whiskey.  The stars were as clear as they could be and filled the sky with the backdrop of the snow capped mountains behind, a perfect way to end several pretty much perfect days.

Tunisia - a day in the north

In front of us clear blue seas glistened in the sunlight, whitewashed houses and cobbled streets glowed, and turquoise doors studded with black and shiny brass rivets added more atmosphere to this quaint village.  Looking around us we could have been in any of the villages that are so common on the Ionian islands of Greece.  Only we weren't.  Instead we were in northern Tunisia. 

Sidi Bou Said

We had been brought here by our driver  / guide for the day.  We had rejected the usual tourist bus trip, it being too hot to deal with other foreigners and too much effort to feign interest in conversation, and had instead secured the services of a friendly driver found by the company outside our hotel.  For less than £70 he was going to drive us round and show us some stuff.  Sounded good, and here we were enjoying a cold and frosty beverage in a shaded cafe with what had to be one of the best views in the country.  The village of Sidi Bou Said did not disappoint, with its winding labyrinth of streets leading nowhere and back again, as they wound there way though the village bringing us out small courtyards or at narrow steps leading to open squares and private gardens.

 

I myself got excited by the doors.  It may seem strange but all through the village traditional painted blue doors appear, each one individually decorated with traditional motifs, such as stars, minarets and crescent moons.  Each one of these doors was fixed to a traditional' boxy' house, workshop or small shop often with the bright pink of that ever present plant that is always found around in hot destinations such as this, the bougainvillea.  A contrast to the stark white of the buildings.  To be honest we hadn't really meant to come here, it was a bonus thrown in by the taxi driver who clearly knew what tourists wanted to see.

 

We had set off that morning with only two destinations in mind.  The first was the capital Tunis.  An hour or so drive north from where we were staying at the coast and only 20Km from Sidi Bou Said.  First impressions were good.  We drove right up what appeared to be the main street and the taxi pulled over.  The wide boulevards reminded us of the wide tree lined avenue of Paris, no surprise considering Tunisia's colonial heritage.  Other evidence of 'Frenchness' appeared in some of the facades of the historic buildings as well as the rather good and strong coffee on offer at the street cafes and terraces along the street, where many a Tunisian man sat taking in the day.  In contrast the winding lanes of the bazaar and the towers of the minarets were very much north African, and provided an opportunity to get lost amongst the traders in the alleys and soak up the sights and smells of the market with its colourful silks and fresh fruits and vegetables on offer.

Tunis

As much as we had enjoyed it in this capital city we continued our journey by venturing out further to the ruins of Carthage.  This ancient Phoenician city had long brought to mind images of riches, knowledge and history and I wanted to see what it was really like.  What's left has obviously lost a lot of its impact, piles of stones, with the odd still upright column are dotted around the landscape, helpful diagrams giving some idea of what each thing used to be help imagine the city at its best.  The museum is interesting enough and the remains of the amphitheatre a little further along the road help to add to the atmosphere.  But as is usual in places such as this, reality of how time has taken its toll means that perhaps it should be left to stories and legends to imagine it at its best.

Ruins of Carthage